Remote Zone Valves

Brent H.

In my addition, I'd like to have 2-3 zones. The problem is that the run to the addition from the boiler is approx. 50+ feet which adds up to a whole lot of pipe. One of my thoughts was to run one 3/4" supply and return and locate the zone valves in the basement of the addition. The total heat loss is about 25K BTU so this seems like it should work. Any thoughts?

Thanks in advance.

billtwocase

Brent, You would want atleast 1" pipe, also consider black iron? Alittle cheaper per foot, although copper has finally stabilized. peace

Brent H.

Why 1\"

Why 1".... seems like I should be able to 25K BTU through 3/4"?

Also, I'm planning on using Fostapex.

billtwocase

That's a long run Brent, and you are running 2 zones off that common feed and return. If it was 1 zone ok, but 2, personally i'd upsize

Brent H.

Thanks for the feedback

I now understand your concern.

I'm trying to avoid 1" since I don't have the crimpers for it and was hoping to avoid buying them

I'll have to see if I can find someone with the tools to help me out.

billtwocase

Welcome Brent. If it was 1/2 that run, i'd say go 3/4 with 2 1/2" zones, but the 50 foot thing with 3/4 feeding 2 3/4 zones, it would eventually work if both zones were heating at the same time. Good luck to you

hot_rod

Here are some calcs

I'd say 3/4 would handle the job, assuming water as the fluid? 5/8 is right on the line with 7 feet of head per 100 feet.

Too much pipe diameter can lower the velocity, making air removal more of a challange. Try to stay above 2 fps when pipe sizing for hydronic purposes.

hr

Brent H.

Quick followup

A somewhat unrelated followup....

Is it necessary to use plastic isolators/sleeves where PEX passes through floor joists?

Thanks.

MikeyB

pipe size

HR, is that diagram from one of John S. (Siggy's) program?

hot_rod

HDS Hydronic Design Software

www.hydronicpros.com