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Remote Zone Valves
Brent H.
Member Posts: 162
In my addition, I'd like to have 2-3 zones. The problem is that the run to the addition from the boiler is approx. 50+ feet which adds up to a whole lot of pipe. One of my thoughts was to run one 3/4" supply and return and locate the zone valves in the basement of the addition. The total heat loss is about 25K BTU so this seems like it should work. Any thoughts?
Thanks in advance.
Thanks in advance.
0
Comments
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Brent, You would want atleast 1" pipe, also consider black iron? Alittle cheaper per foot, although copper has finally stabilized. peace0 -
Why 1\"
Why 1".... seems like I should be able to 25K BTU through 3/4"?
Also, I'm planning on using Fostapex.0 -
That's a long run Brent, and you are running 2 zones off that common feed and return. If it was 1 zone ok, but 2, personally i'd upsize0 -
Thanks for the feedback
I now understand your concern.
I'm trying to avoid 1" since I don't have the crimpers for it and was hoping to avoid buying them
I'll have to see if I can find someone with the tools to help me out.0 -
Welcome Brent. If it was 1/2 that run, i'd say go 3/4 with 2 1/2" zones, but the 50 foot thing with 3/4 feeding 2 3/4 zones, it would eventually work if both zones were heating at the same time. Good luck to you0 -
Here are some calcs
I'd say 3/4 would handle the job, assuming water as the fluid? 5/8 is right on the line with 7 feet of head per 100 feet.
Too much pipe diameter can lower the velocity, making air removal more of a challange. Try to stay above 2 fps when pipe sizing for hydronic purposes.
hrBob "hot rod" Rohr
trainer for Caleffi NA
Living the hydronic dream0 -
Quick followup
A somewhat unrelated followup....
Is it necessary to use plastic isolators/sleeves where PEX passes through floor joists?
Thanks.0 -
pipe size
HR, is that diagram from one of John S. (Siggy's) program?0 -
HDS Hydronic Design Software
www.hydronicpros.comBob "hot rod" Rohr
trainer for Caleffi NA
Living the hydronic dream0
This discussion has been closed.
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