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no heat with new hot water baseboards

Sissy
Sissy Member Posts: 31
I've heard some people say it works, but I've never had luck trying to tie in conventional board with convectors. There just isn't enough surface area- or heat retention in baseboard. The only foolproof cure is to make it a separate zone with its own pump, flow check etc.

Comments

  • smith
    smith Member Posts: 10
    hot water basebords

    i have a monoflo one pipe system in a 100+ house the old radiors and steel baseboards heat fine but in the two rooms that i remodeled i bought new aluminum and copper basebords piping is a all the same as with was. the new ones get luke warm not enough to heat the rooms but the old ones work just fine
  • hank_6
    hank_6 Member Posts: 6
    monoflow

    did you install coin vents on the baseboards? monoflows need to be bled at the elements to allow water to flow up into the element and back to feed pipe.
  • kinda wet
    kinda wet Member Posts: 1


    did you use standard baseboard? If you did it may make more sense to have it as a separate zone. If you do re-pipe remember that the branches on the tees need to be connected to maintain system flow.
  • smith
    smith Member Posts: 10


    yes in did install vents at the end of the baseboards before it returns back to the monoflo tee
  • smith
    smith Member Posts: 10


    yes there slant fin multi pak 80 i thought about a new zone but wont i have to new pump and everything


  • Two things that could be a cause for "not much heat": Is the baseboard mounted too low that carpet is blocking the air slot under the front cover? The slot must remain open to have proper air circulation. Also, is the fin tube(element) installed so that air will pass straight up through, from the bottom to the top. I know of a contractor who installed all the baseboard in a new house to find out after the new homeowner complained of not enough heat, that all the elements were put in wrong!
  • tim smith
    tim smith Member Posts: 2,800
    Are your old convectors taller & have slopet top to them

    If they are, they produce many more btus per linear ft that the multi pak. In regards to luke warm, you probably need to flush out the air from system, a coin vent won't do it a lot of the time. We set systems up to purge when they are baseboards. We don't normally install baseboards as we are not too big of fans of them but they do work if set up right for air removal and sized right. Snap pics of your old ones for comparison and post. Tim
  • j a_2
    j a_2 Member Posts: 1,801
    in series

    keep it simple pipe it in series, In other words cut the loop pipe install a 90 hit your baseboard then 90 back to the loop it will work, forget the monoflow tees for that area You may want to make sure your d/t is still somewhat close good luck
  • jeff_25
    jeff_25 Member Posts: 110
    baseboard

    what is your water temp copper fin baseboard needs hotter water than rad and cast basebord does
  • smith
    smith Member Posts: 10


    the water temp on the boiler is about 200 if i feel the feed and return pipes they all feel about the same temp new and the old but the new one are still cool to luke warm and old ones hot enough that you dont wont to hold your hand on to long
  • smith
    smith Member Posts: 10


    yes there installed correct air flow up through and I dont have any carpet
  • smith
    smith Member Posts: 10


    they are taller with no baffels in them all steel including the fins. how do you set them up to purge is that the same as a automatic air removel (bleeder)
  • smith
    smith Member Posts: 10


    will that mess up the flow to rest of the heater farther down the pipe
  • JJ_7
    JJ_7 Member Posts: 1
    A guess?

    I am not a pro, but doesn't monoflow work on the principles of flow resistance and pressure differentials? If all of your system is one zone and the new piping is 3/4" or 1/2" versus 1" or 1 1/4" for the old radiator supply, then the water is taking the path of least resistance. Just a guess.
  • CV
    CV Member Posts: 3
    temp

    the flow should not be affected, however, the temperature will decrease as you go through each rad. This will effect the output of all but the first radiator in series, which may not be an issue if they are sized for that type of piping but if each rad is sized for max temp then only the first will perform to design.
  • Sissy
    Sissy Member Posts: 31


    Sounds like people are saying to cut in new standard tees to the main loop- if you do this you must connect the old supply tee to the mono-flow (return) tee with 1/2" pipe to maintain flow. I have tried this with poor results, no matter what you do the slant fin will not "hold" the heat like the convectors do.
  • Convector pipe diameter?

    How does the convector pipe size of the old convectors compare to the new ones? If the old steel pipe convectors were much larger in diameter you probably had a lot more flow than with the new copper ones.

    How big is the main that feed the monoflow tees?
  • martin
    martin Member Posts: 144
    cold baseboard

    Somewhere in your supply piping you have an air lock.
    the piping to the baseboard should have a gradual incline to the element so any air can go to your coin vents. Monoflows work great when the bugs are out and I would not screw with the main piping.
  • smith
    smith Member Posts: 10


    yes that is correct based on the research but all the pipes are yhe same and the same as they were with the old base boards the only thing that is differnt is the baseboards very old steel one verse new light weight aluminum
  • smith
    smith Member Posts: 10


    yes
  • smith
    smith Member Posts: 10


    yes all the pipes are the same size 3/4 on all basebords and radators and the supple pipe to all is 1-1/4 or 1-1/2 black pipe also the new ones are closer to the boiler that some of the other old one and the old are still way hotter
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