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Hot aptartment

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Frank_63
Frank_63 Member Posts: 40
Would you screw the ball valve into the radiator and then screw the air vent into the ball valve? Then close the valve when you want to stop the heat and open it when you want heat?

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  • mark ransley
    mark ransley Member Posts: 155
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    I have a overheating apartment, I dont have money for TRVs right today. I have Gorton 4 in the radiators. Is there a slower vent made. I have thought of reducing radiator angle. Any other tricks I can easily try to reduce heat. I hate it when tenants open windows.
  • ttekushan_3
    ttekushan_3 Member Posts: 958
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    could put

    a 1/8" plug valve in line with the vent. Might need a coupling to connect the valve and vent.

    Or use that silver foil tape and stick it to the top of the outlet so it stays in place and use a needle, or sharp drywall screw etc. to pierce it until the temp is right.

    A stack of coins can work too, but its "unreliable."

    -Terry
    terry
  • mark ransley
    mark ransley Member Posts: 155
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    Terry, what is a plug valve, do you mean put tape over the vent hole?
  • Big Ed_4
    Big Ed_4 Member Posts: 2,785
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    Hoffman

    Hoffman 1 are a very nice slow adjustablevvent . 1A is angle ,1B is straight. Or for economy Hoffman #40 is a slow nonajustible.
    I have enough experience to know , that I dont know it all
  • ttekushan_3
    ttekushan_3 Member Posts: 958
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    yep

    tape over vent hole. The aluminum tape hold up under the heat.

    and plug valve something along these lines. And you can shut off the radiator without touching the main radiator valve.

    one option

    its the kind they used to use for the pilot gas shut off on old boilers and furnaces, usually with a "B" handle.
    terry
  • Supply House Rick
    Supply House Rick Member Posts: 1,404
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    hot apartment

    i think maybe the location and/or anticipation of your thermostat maybe partly to blame. does the room where the t-stat is keep a steady temperature? if the location of the t-stat is much colder than other parts of the bldg. then the boiler will run longer to satisfy the temp. get a cheap digital thermometer with memory for hi-lo temps so you can see if there is any swing in the t-stat area.

    i also think that main venting, when adequate enough [i have 2 gorton # 2's and 1 hoffman 75 on each of my 6 dry returns], will make sure that steam arrives at all the risers in as short a time as possible. then it is up to the rad vents to exhaust the remaining 5% of the total air out of the rads and risers. somehow your area where the t-stat is located is getting steam late, resulting in longer runtimes.--nbc
  • Paul Fredricks_9
    Paul Fredricks_9 Member Posts: 315
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    According to the sheets I have, a Ventrite #1 set at the #2 position is slower. So is the Hoffman 1A in the #1 position.
  • ttekushan_3
    ttekushan_3 Member Posts: 958
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    yes.

    yes. the valve goes between radiator and thermostatic vent.

    BTW, plug valves as used in gas service seem to work out nicely only because there aren't any seals that will be affected by heat. They can corrode, however, so pick your poison! Frankly, those ball valves seem to hold up fine.
    terry
  • Supply House Rick
    Supply House Rick Member Posts: 1,404
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    heat/steam imbalance a few more thoughts

    these times of the year, when it's not really cold, but you still need heat; are the times when you can waste a lot of gas waiting for the "slow section" to catch up. in the coldest part of winter, the imbalance is not so pronounced.

    if the boiler only needs to run 15 min. every hour to satisfy the thermostat area, but the hot spot gets steam in 3 min. then you have got waste. how much gas can you buy for the price of a few gorton # 2 main vents?--nbc
  • oil-2-4-6-gas
    oil-2-4-6-gas Member Posts: 641
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    Heat-Timer vari-vent variable
This discussion has been closed.