Radiator valve question---?

Supply House Rick

your case sounds like wet steam to me. i suggest you finally skim the boiler through the skimming tee you put in the piping; now that the cutting oils have been boiled off, and found their way into the boiler . while you are at it, drain out everything until there is no trace of squick left-just good old H2O. utica may recommend something like arm&hammer washing soda as a cleaner [as does peerless].

if the problem persists, then compare your piping layout to that specified by the mfg. and correct. make sure that for best performance your pressure is low [under 12 oz. is ideal]--nbc

Boston Standard_2

Rattling..

I've done a near boiler repipe on a one-pipe Utica gas steam boiler. I've also installed A-Band hangers to pick up a few sagging steam lines that were banging. Replaced two angled radiator valves and added some Squick to the boiler. Things worked great for a bit, but the new valve began rattling at the disc after about 1-2 weeks. I went out and replaced the 1.25" Legend Valve with a Watts Valve. Now the Watts valve has the rattle too. I returned yesterday for additional skimming and didn't add more squick (in case it must be skimmed again). The rattle returned again... I've got great pitch throughout, the dual headers have nice pitch to the full-size equalizer etc ... but it has a tiny rattle.

I haven't boiled a test-sample of boiler water and couldn't say if there is any sweating or droplets in the top of the gauge glass... Forgot to check at that time. Any other ideas? I'm aware that sometimes you get defective stuff, but twice seems unlikely. I also should say I ensured that the nut on the disc is snug.

Thanks a million!
Joe

Boston Standard_2

The rattle

NBC- yesterday I actually did remove the rest of the squick- some through skimming, the rest through draining & flushing. Now the gauge glass is completely clear and clean. As for the mfg's instructions, I was actually called in to bring the bad pipework up to the mfg's standards, including dual 2" headers (26" off the water line), full-size equalizer, proper pitch on supply & return lines as well as properly located return vents (#75). The boiler is operating at 1/2 pound cut-in with a 1lb differential setting on a PA404A...

Just some additional info for though- and thanks for the quick response.

Kool Rod

Could you give some more description on the "rattle"? Can you pin down exactly where it is coming from? When in a steam cycle does it occur - beginning, middle, end, all the time? I'm not quite sure what you mean by "a rattle"...is it a harmonic or water noise?

Any chance it is a pipe vibrating against something due to expansion when it's heating up? I got some "popping" on one of my pipes. Found it was caused by pipe touching a floor joist. Just placed a piece of rubber inner tube between them.Had a big problem fined the source as it seems coming from a place 10 feet away.

Boston Standard_2

It sounds like a

very light knocking or tapping inside the radiator valve. It appears to happen throughout the cycle for that radiator, and whenever steam enters the valve. I'm sure that if I removed the valve and used a 90 instead, it would stop. It isn't nearby wood that is creaking, I checked to be sure. When the vent-rite #1 is closed, the rattle stops. When it reopens to allow more steam to enter, the rattle continues. I was pretty sure the first valve had some looseness at the disc on the inside, and because it was weeping from the bonnet nut, I called it defective and replaced it. Now this valve has the same rattle, but no leaks.

Thanks again- Joe

Supply House Rick

rattle

maybe that would be the cure--a 90 with no valve. i don't see why valves are used. every one i have tried to close [old or new] has never really sealed, so why put them in to begin with?

the other possiblity is that the rattle is coming from a slight dam of old debris just inside the rad. when you changed the valve, was there water inside?-nbc

Boston Standard_2

Thats something...

I hadn't checked, to be honest. It's possible that during the cut & peel, part of the thread fell into the leg of the radiator, and that could be what is rattling- but if that ever happens I almost always am able to retrieve it. Anyone have any other suggestions?

Kool Rod

I'd be suspicious of your replacement valve. Do you know how it is constructed internally? Some valves have plastic (teflon) disks which can vibrate. Since the noise is coming from the valve, I think I'd remove the radiator and with a good flashlight, make a thorough inspection of the inside of the valve and radiator.

- Rod

bob young

heat

isolation valves are used so you can disconnect & work on individual radiators without shutting down the complete system in the dead of winter.