Burnham IN5 Pressuretrol - PLEASE HELP!!

donald@donaldluckenbill.com

Also, when installing a new gauge, i need to add pigtail to protect it?
am i suppose to fill the pigtail with wateR?

donald@donaldluckenbill.com

Honeywell Pressuretrol

I have a PA404A1367 pressuretrol with plans of replacing it with a vaporstat when money permits. in the meantime, i have a emergency question regarding this pressuretrol: its a subtractive differential so i have main set to 2psi and differential set between .5psi and 1psi. So .75psi to per say. My questions are: -when the boiler reaches its cut out a 2psi(main) i can hear the trip on the pressuretrol(it clicks) but it doesnt shut down the boiler. Why? -the unit actually shuts down at 5.5psi per the factory installed pressure guage (0-30psi). Could it be that the guage is actually wrong and not suitable for low pressure reading and when it reads 5.5 its actually 2psi? and how popular is this issue with homeowners that the factory guage is not correct or is it just me?

Thanks for any input. Much appreciated.

bob young

gauge

replace gauge . if the gauge moves up & down it is usually pretty much accurate. put a pigtail on new gauge . maybe a tee & both gauges & check against each other

bob young

make sure pigtail is clear

Supply House Rick

faulty pressuretrol

those pressuretrols even when new, are notoriously inaccurate at the low pressures needed for steam systems. it appears that your pressuretrol is not breaking the circuit when the cut-out pressure is reached. i would make sure that the pigtail is clean, and that the pressuretrol[if mercury type] is not being tilted by a hot pigtail, throuwing the mercury bulb off center. if your boiler has regularly gone to 5.5 psi, your main vents may unfortunately have been made into paperweights. if your finances permit spending 10% extra on fuel, why not use that money instead on a vaporstat, and new big main venting?--nbc

donald@donaldluckenbill.com

Thanks bob.

the current set up, the pigtail is connected to pressuretrol. the boiler is 1 year old and i was able to blow thru the pigtail so chances are its not clogged.

so you advise me to take out the existing 0-30 gauge and tee that port for 2 gauges? do you have pic of set up?

So you dont think its the pressuretrol thats bad? i mean, you can hear it trip at desired limit setting, but doesnt turn off....
Thanks

donald@donaldluckenbill.com

Thanks Nick.
This is a non mercury pressuretrol. When it is not breaking the circuit, what could be wrong? is it a faulty pressuretrol or inaccurate reading form 0-30 guage?

I currently have 4 gorton 1s connected on my end of main and replaced all radiator vents with varivalves.
What im thinking is that the 5.5psi registered on my factory installed gauge, can that be accurate?

do you recommend this gauge: http://www.gaugestore.com/prodinfo.asp?number=33043

Thanks always NBC!

Kool Rod

Bob- The 0-30 PSI gauge is required by code(insurance)so you need to leave that attached and functioning. Just add the second gauge using a pigtail and tee. Use brass as it is less likely to corrode. If you can't get them at a local supplier, try Mc Master Carr.

- Rod

bob young

clean all fittings & pigtail to boiler tapping

the prefered set up is two gauges . one 30 # for code & one ounce gauge 0 # -----5 #for precise accurate calibration. if gauges are good , pressuretrol is bad. check gauges first.....much cheaper than controls . you don't want to replace pressurtrol if it is not necessary

donald@donaldluckenbill.com

Rod/Bob Young thanks.

one last dumb question. do i tee the current tapping for the gauge or leave the 0-30 psi guage alone and stack the low pressure gauge with the pressuretrol?
what works better? do you have pic of your set up?


i was reading somehere that you need water in the pigtail before installation, is that true?

FJL

Look at this thread . . .

Looks like you don't need to prime it: http://forums.invision.net/Thread.cfm?CFApp=2&Thread_ID=62423&mc=17#Message437140

Just note I was hooking mine up to a rad, not the boiler.

Kool Rod

Bob Young has far more experience than I have so I'd go with the advice he gives.

I can just tell you how I did mine and it seems to work okay. I teed mine with the pressuretrol rather than on the same pigtail with the factory gauge so the gauges were on independent pigtails. I figured that way it would be easier to determine if one of the pigtails was plugged. I don't think it really matters how you do it. Probably what is easiest to do in your situation.

You can install the pigtail and then add a little water and then attach the gauge though I'm not sure that this is really necessary as water will find its way into the loop anyway.

- Rod

donald@donaldluckenbill.com

thanks.
I promise, last question.
does the 0-30psi gauge need to be on pigtail? the installer just screwed it into the tapping. the connection is on the back of gauge, so no pigtail.

Kool Rod

No problem - Questions are much better than mistakes!

Pigtails protect the instruments attached to them from direct exposure to the steam and contribute to the longevity of the instruments. Pigtails cost money so some manufacturers leave them out if they feel they can get away with it.

If you need to change the direction of your gauge just use an elbow or two. As I mentioned use brass fittings as it is much more resistant to corrosion than iron.

- Rod

donald@donaldluckenbill.com

Thanks ROD!

bob young

all ice cream but different flavers

We are basicly on the same page ,Rod. and thanks for the kind word. a million different piping arrangements some better than others but all will work. pipe fitting is usually a fielders choice