Tricks for removing a coupling on metal steal pipe.

JP_13

I have exposed the coupling that joins two (longer vertical) metal steam heat pipes together. They are threaded black pipes. The bottom pipe goes to another pipe in the basement that feeds the furnace and the top pipe goes to the radiator (which is disconnected). I would like to unthread the top pipe from the coupling but it is not breaking loose. The pipe is a little rusty, but not bad. Do you have any tips on how I can break this pipe from the coupling so that I can unthread it? I have tried with pipe wrenches and it won't budge...I'm willing to call in a plumber but am thinking if I can't budge it, will they be able to? Thank you

Big Ed_4

If it's cast crack it...

Most installers used cast fitting so you can break the fitting when doing repairs. You can spot them by they have thicker lips at the ends. Use two lug hammers. One of the hammers rest on the other side of the fitting where you are hitting. This will take the bounce off the hammering....

Unknown

There's always,,,

the Rigid 36" Aluminum pipe wrench. That usually busts them loose.

Or you can also put a long piece of pipe over the end of your wrench handle as a "cheater" to get more leverage but you wouldn't be the first to bend or break your wrench doing that. Especially if it says "Made in China" on it. I'm going to assume you know how to wedge your hold wrench against something while you crank on the big wrench.

Ever see the "This Old House" episode when Norm is showing Bob V how to bust a fitting overhead in between the joists? Norm, one hand, three wacks it broke. Bob, two hands, total maybe ten wacks, nothing. Norm, takes over for Bob. Three wacks it's broken. I was practically rolling on the floor.

eluv8

Joints

Sometimes taking a torch and heating up the coupling quickly helps the metal to expand away from the pipe itself, and like everyone else said cheater bars and muscle. Lastly I have resorted to sawzall blades.

kevin_60

remove pipe

cut off the pipe about a 1/2 inch from the coupling then make a saw cut inside the coupling through the pipe thickness being careful not to damage the threads. then with a hammer and chisle hit the pipe by the cut to fold the threads in, work back until the last of the threads is folded in, then remove the piece.

Unknown

If,,,

you leave enough stub (~2") and then cut the threads as described usually the cut is enough relief so that you can easily spin the nubbie out with your pipewrench. Just be very careful not to damage the coupling threads. It's kind of an art.

oil-2-4-6-gas

JP any plumber worth his salt will have no problem removing it. you just need 2 - pipe wrenchs and 2 equalizer -extensions ( 1 to hold back, 1 to turn) and some muscle -- the only times you cant is when the pipe was put together using X-pando or any other hydraulic setting pipe dope --in that case it might take the male threads with it ----but the pipe can be threaded in place most times ------what size pipe ? hell i had to use the 4ft pipe wrench with a 2ft with an extension to remove some 2" fittings from a steam trap today

Billy_12

My dad show me this trick and it has worked every time. He would heat the pipe not the fitting. The pipe would expand loosening the threads and breaking the rusted seal. Then he would wait a few minutes till the pipe cooled and contracted away from the fitting.

tim smith

Take small 4\" wheel grinder w/ metal cutoff wheel, cut slots in

collar of coupling on both sides on either end, don't cut to deep, shy of threads. Then put metal chisel in to slot and open up a bit then will come right off. Easy if wrenches not working.