Triangle Tube Solo Boiler acid problem

Duffy_5

.

Duffy_5

Triangle Tube Solo Boiler acid problem

I have a Triangle Tube Solo boiler with polybutaline piping and infloor heat. The Solo boiler was installed less than a year ago as an upgrade, at the time glycol was added to the system water. Recently discovered an extremely high acidic PH in the system water and "blooming" corrosion on the release value and other copper pipe joints.
My contractor and boiler supplier have not previously encountered this problem. Both advise it is unusual for such a high acid level to develop in such a short time.
Anyone with similar experience?
Thank you.

Derheatmeister

\"Upgrade\"

On this "Upgrade" was the system circulating pump change to a Bronze circ?

Was the expansion tank of the domestic type?

Is the fill valve Bronze? Is there any ferrous(Iron) material in this equation? was the system flushed? was a system Cleaner like Rhomar used to clean the debris from the old system? are you on a Well?
Was the system treated with a system Treatment after the install?Do you have a indirect waterheater? and if so which brand?Why do you need Glycol?were are you located? Maybe some Pix may help!.. Heatmeister AKA the none ox expert

Edit: High PH ?.... or low PH?...Low will be Acidic!

how was this PH measured?

Unknown

Not sure,

about polybutylene leaching characteristics, but how was the PH at your initial start-up?
Is your water supply from a well?
Many wells have a very low PH.

Edit- As Richard says, was this system originally "open"?(using a water heater)
And was it properly flushed/cleaned when upgraded?

Dave

Duffy_5

Thanks, should have had the techies respond to this one.
System fill using city tap water, ordinary PH, not acidic.
System was flushed when upgraded, not sure what was used to clean. Original system was a Teledyne Lars, no water heater involved. Supplier of the Solo is a distributor, well aware of the poly issues. No ferrous issues in the system, everything is high end Taco, stanless/brass as I underdstand with rediant mixing block, Bradfor White stainless, internal tube, hot water heater off the boiler. Contractor may have added glycol re rust. Located in North Vancouver, British Columbia, no freezing issues even though I live above the snow line, when we get snow or cold weather. The expension tank appears to be domestic, was replaced today.
I can supply pics showing the corrosion.
Thanks again

Drew_2

Antifreeze to acid

This is a problem that has occured with antifreezes that have had little or no inhibitor in them. Part of the inhibitors job is to buffer the propylene glycol as it breaks down. Without it doing that job, propylene glycol can go to an acid state very quickly.

Drew/Noble Company (Noburst)

hot_rod

Is it a barrier PB?

or just plain plumbing (non barrier) pb? Regular pb will allow O2 into the system. The hotter you run it the faster the ingress of O2.

The ingress of O2 may be depleting the oxygen scanvanger component in the glycol.

I'd flush, run a Rhomar cleaner through it, and use a best quality "multi metal" hydronic HD glycol.

Do you absoutely need the glycol? Could you isolate the "freeze risk" sections with a heat exchanger?

Regardless., after starting with a clean system with top glycol (blended with DI water, by the way) keep an eye on the ph. Put a pad or some glycol labels onn the system to record the ph levels and dates taken.

hr

Xc8p2dC

Do you know what the exact PH is?

There are some recalls on glycol for High PH over 9, but don't think for acidic

Duffy_5

The PH was very acidic, deep yellow when the problem was discovered. The current PH on start up is roughly 7 which is slightly acidic. The PH is the same for tap water.
I don't think there is a freeze issue with the system.

Unknown

Actually,

a PH of 7 is considered neutral.

Dave

hot_rod

ph for hydronic glycols

will run 9.0 to 11.7 out of the bucket (check the label on the brand you use) 8.0- 10 is generally acceptable. 7 or below, consider replacing the fluid. Inhibitors can be added, but when it falls that low it may be best to flush and replace the fluid.

Use a narrow range ph paper to test if you don't own a refractometer.

Remember all systems should be cleaned properly before glycol is added. the quality of the blend water has a lot to do with the life of the glycol. Bad blend water (chlorides, sulfates, hardness) can ruin the glycol from day one. use pre-blended glycols to eliminate that part of the equasion.

Store unused glycols in a container with a tight lid, if o2 gets in it will compromise the fluid,also.

hr

scott markle_2

glycol feeder

This is why I question the glycol feeder (open reservoir tank with pump).

I think the pig is a better way to go. Three hits by the flooring guys on this job (I told them what to do if they had a leek) and I still have 20 psi in the pig.

Leo G_103

Duffy, just sent

you an e-mail. Live and work here in North Van. Give me a jingle if you want.

Leo G