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Mixing Valve

I must admit it is rather confusing. I have checked several sites, Honeywell's and a few supply houses' and the #s seem right. But this box is clearly marked HEATING ONLY, NOT FOR POTABLE WATER and so are the instructinos inside. AM101R-UT-1 I don't get it. But I will call Honeywell first thing Monday. The only noticable difference is it has a black handle (and it too states "Caution Heating Only."

Comments

  • Eileen Olive
    Eileen Olive Member Posts: 99
    Mixing Valve for DHW

    Went to get Taco Mixing Valve (5003) for use at indirect hot water tank, but they sold me a Honeywell (AM101R-UT-1) saying it was even better (they are not a Taco distributer). Nice I thought, untill I got it home and read that it is "Not for potable usage."

    Ok, it must go back. But why is it not for potable? I just HAVE to ask.
  • Charlie from wmass
    Charlie from wmass Member Posts: 4,357


    http://customer.honeywell.com/honeywell/ProductInfo.aspx/AM101R-UT-1 Here is the specs from honeywell. I say it is a good valve but you can read the description yourself and decide.
    Cost is what you spend , value is what you get.

    cell # 413-841-6726
    https://heatinghelp.com/find-a-contractor/detail/charles-garrity-plumbing-and-heating
  • bob young
    bob young Member Posts: 2,177
    use a holby

    holby & case closed.
  • tccoggs_2
    tccoggs_2 Member Posts: 14


    I think the only difference is the range, the DHW has a lower limit, maybe 140, where the heating model can go to 180.
  • kpc_52
    kpc_52 Member Posts: 22
    you are fine.....

    the omly reason it is listed as non potable is the temp rating of 180F.... I have one on mine and has worked well for 4 years.....
  • oil-2-4-6-gas
    oil-2-4-6-gas Member Posts: 641


    Holby , i've never seen a Holby under 1-1/4
  • bob young
    bob young Member Posts: 2,177
    1/2 \" TO 4 \"

    www.holby.com/ BEST YOU CAN BUY.
  • oil-2-4-6-gas
    oil-2-4-6-gas Member Posts: 641


    i've been working on and rebuilding Holbys' and their X valves for a long time -1-1/4" up to 4" --never seen small ones though
  • kpc_52
    kpc_52 Member Posts: 22
    lawyers make....

    them put that on there...as long as you keep the temp down to 120-130 it is fine.... or just take it back and get the lower temp range model. kpc
  • Eileen Olive
    Eileen Olive Member Posts: 99
    Thanks

    I guess you're right, and I intend to set the indirect tank at 140* anyway, which I believe the TT-110 alows me to do. Sorry, but the box totally threw me an unexpected curve ball.
  • heatguy
    heatguy Member Posts: 102
    maybe lead content ?

    maybe the valve has higher lead content in the brass?
  • Eileen Olive
    Eileen Olive Member Posts: 99
    Never thought of that

    But I will check. I e-mailed Honeywell over the weekend, but they never responded . . . .
  • hot_rod
    hot_rod Member Posts: 22,833
    It may be the ASSE listings on the valve

    point of use, point of distribution, scald guard, etc. 1016, 1069, and the new 1070 listing.

    Here is a good link to the various standards and the differences.

    www.hgexperts.com/article.asp?id=5135

    And some Honeywell specific info

    www.forwardthinking.honeywell.com/related_links/water/mixing_valve/sell/63_9705.pdf

    hr
    Bob "hot rod" Rohr
    trainer for Caleffi NA
    Living the hydronic dream
  • Eileen Olive
    Eileen Olive Member Posts: 99
    Ok, finally spoke to Honeywell

    They say the AM101R does not have check valves in the body. I don't know . . . so I exchanged it for the AM101C-1, for use with potable water. Oddly though, when I switched boxes I noticed a big difference in weight. This one has NPT female ends, unlike the other with nice unions and metal gaskets. Not that that makes a difference. But one would think the heavy unit with threads and unions would be considerably more expensive, right. $1.25 less. But that's the end of that story. No excess lead in the brass and not, according to Honeywell, the 180* temp rating. Thanks guys, it was a learning experience,
  • Charlie from wmass
    Charlie from wmass Member Posts: 4,357


    Check valves darn I should have known that one. We used to have to pipe in chack valves before they were stocked that way around here. It is nice having the unions too.
    Cost is what you spend , value is what you get.

    cell # 413-841-6726
    https://heatinghelp.com/find-a-contractor/detail/charles-garrity-plumbing-and-heating
  • Eileen Olive
    Eileen Olive Member Posts: 99
    Yes, Charlie

    For the extra buck, I really wanted to hang onto those unions. Had a nice solid feel to it, too. After hefting the one I returned, this one is feeling kinda skimpy. Oh well, it goes in in the morning. Do you have any prefrence for piping one of these into an indiret HW tank? How much of a heat trap? Inverted? How far from the hot water discharge on the tank? Just asking. Everyone has their own preference. I;m always looking for better ways to do things.
  • Charlie from wmass
    Charlie from wmass Member Posts: 4,357


    The ones we have here have unions and check valves I will need to find the model number. I am not aware of them needing a heat trap unlike the older style tempering valves. the checks take care of that. I also keep it close but convient to the indirect. No point in running 2 pipes, hot and cold, far when it can be reduced to the one outlet pipe.
    Cost is what you spend , value is what you get.

    cell # 413-841-6726
    https://heatinghelp.com/find-a-contractor/detail/charles-garrity-plumbing-and-heating
  • Eileen Olive
    Eileen Olive Member Posts: 99
    Scratch all that

    Now Honeywell is telling me that ONLY the mixing valves with the unions have check valves internal. I should have avoided all this nonsense at first sight and gone with the Taco. Live and learn.
  • bob young
    bob young Member Posts: 2,177
    always separate components

    holby w/ heatsink.....no check needed no unions needed will outlive you can be rebuilt forever
  • Charlie from wmass
    Charlie from wmass Member Posts: 4,357


    EJN it is a good valve by my experience just seems a supply house glitch. I find I need to know what I need rather than ask them what would work as too many people do not listen when other people emmit sounds from their vocal devices.

    Here is all the answers ( http://customer.honeywell.com/techlit/pdf/95c-00000s/SD_IS_150.pdf) The am 100c 1 should be the 1/2" choice.
    Cost is what you spend , value is what you get.

    cell # 413-841-6726
    https://heatinghelp.com/find-a-contractor/detail/charles-garrity-plumbing-and-heating
  • Rob Blair
    Rob Blair Member Posts: 227
    Hey Bob, I take it you like Holby's

    Rob
  • bob young
    bob young Member Posts: 2,177
    jewelry

    yeah Rob , , i am hooked on Holby . i consider it a piece of jewelry. try it , you will like it ! precicion & reliablity
  • Eileen Olive
    Eileen Olive Member Posts: 99
    Thanks Charlie

    Yes, it was the supply house . . . and me. I asked for a Taco, but they said they are not Taco distributors. But they have plenty of Honeywells, and they are about $25 cheeper. It looked as good, nice and solid, but then the difficulties started. I should have driven down the road to the other supply house. Oh well.
  • Joe Mattiello
    Joe Mattiello Member Posts: 709


    The Taco 5000 series is not a 1016 valve either, or comply with the ASSE code. For a complete listing of valves that comply visit the ASSE website. Hopefully, this helps you.
    Joe Mattiello
    N. E. Regional Manger, Commercial Products
    Taco Comfort Solutions
This discussion has been closed.