Need tips for boxing in HWBB

singh

I'll be installing a heating system in a 6000 sq. ft house soon,
Architect is looking into custom building trim around baseboard. I suggested
openings on bottom and top, and 1" space in front min. Other than that, I'm not sure if btu output would be reduced a little, and should I remove fronts and leave elements exposed or have carpenter just box around the entire baseboard.

I also suggest a product like www. go-overboard.com if it's in the buget.

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Brad White_191

Devil is in the Details, Devan

Sorry, running out of D's

The essentials are "tight and height". Get as tight a fit to the element as you can get, in order to force as much air through the element as you can. Less bypass the better. (Any element will induce secondary flow and what comes out is not as warm.)

Height rocks. Get more height if you can. That chimney effect takes an ambivalent element sitting in space and, with no fan energy, adds 25% or more to the output. Insulate the bejeezus out of the wall behind it of course.

Some detail ideas I have used over the years (picture if you will):

1. Tall book cases up to clerestory glass. Rear "chimney" 2" deep to accommodate Argo bare element, full height. Open toe-kick. Very nice updraft.

2. Shorter version of the same, book and toy shelves to about 36" above the floor.

3. Deep wainscot, similar detail, to upwash windows but without casework in front.

Just be sure to buy enough element cradles and have access to clean the fins with a vacuum if need be.

A key principle is that if you cover the wall and heat it to room temperature, conductance stops. Keep that in mind and your client's comfort will be assured.

My $0.02

Brad

singh

Thanks Brad

Its a go, client approved carpenters' mock up. I have yet to see it , but I'm most concerned about a drop in output, I tried to take as much linear wall space as I could. Total @ 252' of element. Bathrooms will also get towel warmers as a supplement and upgrade, and kick space heat in kitchen.
If I understand correctly, I could get a 25% Increase with a height adjustment on the custom covers? Would a 2" space top and bottom be better than 1"?
Oh , and how would reset effect the output at lower temps. I'd hate to have it running at steady 180* , but may consider going no lower than 140*
Of course I also need these to be easily removable for cleaning access and repair.
Wish me luck.

Thanks ,

Devan

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hot_rod

a space for the cool air

to enter on the bottom side of the element is critical. Oone carpenter built beautiful oak overs, nicely routered tops but no place for the air to enter. The output was all but zip.

He removed them all and routered slots in the bottom of the face and all was fine. I'm not sure it reduced the output at all, as long as you have the convection currents, through the fins as Brad mentioned, they should heat just fine.

hr

Charlie from wmass

Sorry Devan I get a bad feel when people think they can custom cover perimeter baseboard. Carpenters never seem to get the idea that these things need access and cleaned. why not just bury radiant in the walls with climate panels and be done with it?

singh

Charlie

We lost the argument on radiant in floor, then I tried panel rads, even got sample, the interior desecrater and H.O. did not like those, the Architect came back with 6" high Runtal baseboards, I sized those and priced out, very expensive, so they shot it down on price. So HWBB on my end, carpenter to box as way to save $$$.
But get this it's a $1M plus build, you don't want to know how much the faucets cost, and other "show pieces".
Plus, the house will have Hi-V air on 2nd Floor, and they want me to zone it! Now it can be done, but makes me nervous, and it added a lot to the install cost, I kept pushing just one zone to save money, and upgrade heat being our cooling season is maybe three weeks long. No go.
You win some, you lose some. But I'm staying busy.....

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GusHerb

at least they went with hydronic for heat around here theres a whole country club/ neighborhood full of 5000 to 10000 sqft houses and most of them have forced air furnaces for heat!

mark ransley

Has anyone thought about R 7.2" dual foilfaced Polyisocyanurate formboard on exterior walls, so you dont heat the outside, its cheap 16$ a 4x8 sheet. Caulk seams real well.