Recommend Electric Kickspace Htr to Replace Beacon-Morris?

Charlie from wmass

There is 110 degree thermostat I added one to my bathroom kick space heater when I had it on the return end of my first floor zone of castiron baseboard. Da had installed a 005 on the zone which works great with the cast iron baseboard but does not work so well with the monoflow tees I had used. I now have it on its own micro zone with its own circulator. The low temp thermostat is available.

Sam_16

We have a Beacon Morris K120 Kickspace installed during a kitchen remodel and it is not working out.

Can anyone recommend a quiet, reliable electric model to replace it?

Charlie from wmass

why is it not working out? I really like the beacon morris units and they will cost less for heating than the electric will. also in my opion they are safer as they do not have electrical coils heating up in them.

Sam_16

There are probably other reasons, but I think the main one is that my system doesn't run hot enough for long enough for the kickspace heater to ever do anything. Even with the temerature around zero the last few days we don't go over 140 degrees when the boiler is firing and the circulator is running.

From what I've read, it was probably a long-shot that it would work well on my old two-pipe converted gravity system with 17 cast iron radiators all on the same zone.

Michael Wilson

Add a circ...

First check the cut in and cut out temperatures of the kickspace heater, you may need to up your boiler temperature.



I had the same problem on a converted gravity system.
I added a circulator on the inlet side of the kickspace heater and wired it (the circ.) back to the circulator relay for the boiler.


The kick-space heater worked as expected ever since

CC.Rob_13

replacement B-M thermostat

I believe there's a low-temp version of the internal thermostat that runs the fan. Search this forum or hopefully someone else will chime in.

Sam_16

I actually have a Johnson Controls/Penn strap-on aquastat (set at 120) mounted on an exposed pipe in the basement to get the unit to work at all. This get warm air out of the blower as soon as it is available, but it also causes the unit to run longer than it should, blowing cool air for a while, after the circulator stops.

We could tweak it a little with a different aquastat, or we could get it wired it to the circulator as a next step, but it often just blows through until the boiler restarts anyway--providing all the warm air it possibly could.

Unless I am missing something, the next real step if we wanted to keep the Beacon-Morris would be to repipe the whole system into two zones and have the boiler running more often just to power the single kickspace heater.

I would love a simple, cost-effective solution to this problem, but that is why I was thinking that electric would be a better way to go in this case.