Breathing Rads?

Jeff_130

Terry:

Thanks for the suggestion. It will allow me to skim without having to play with the tapping - never would have thought of that. I only have small uninsulated runs where the asbestos came off and I haven't replaced a T or elbow with fiberglass (the horizontal runs are insulated with fiberglass). I plan on doing the joints in the Spring. I have been playing with the tapping but it is solidly frozen and I don't want to force it out of fear of breaking something. Do you have any suggestions/tips for removing the tapping for future use (penetrating oil, heating it with a torch, etc.?).

Thanks.

Jeff

Jeff_130

Breathing Rads?

I have a couple of old column type rads that sound like they are exhaling when the air is being released (not a long even release of air - more like a sigh). I've read Dan's Books & replaced all the main & rad vents with new Gortons in the last month which is when I noticed the new noise. I also noticed that the water level in the gauge glass rises and falls by about 3/4 inch while the burner is firing (is this "surging"? - I picture "surging" as violent change where mine is more "relaxed") Are these normal? Thanks. Jeff

ttekushan_3

Uninsulated pipes and/or

dirty water.

Uninsulated horizontal runs of pipe can cause this as a "tide" of condensate flows back and forth. It may even be an adjacent line reflecting back into the line you are observing.

The bounce you describe is normal, but a low water content boiler can have a mild case of film on the water's surface that can cause the "panting" at distant radiators or one branch of the system. BTW, blowing water off the bottom of the boiler won't get rid of the film on top. It must be skimmed. I think a short surface skim would be adequate.

And if you have a little of both causes, then you can see how very little water contamination can worsen the effect you see.

The trick I use for those who can't get access to the water surface any other way is to use the sight glass hardware. Shut the boiler off, close the bottom valve of the sight glass leaving the top open, open or remove the little nut/valve at the bottom. Fill the boiler slowly so water reaches the top fitting and just trickles out. Do this for an hour or so, refit the drain at the bottom, open the bottom valve, and drain the excess water from the boiler until you have a normal water level on the sight glass. Operate normally.

Its insanely easy to do this without having to remove tapping plugs, etc. If it solves or improves the problem, great. If not, it didn't cost you anything!

Then replace any missing insulation.

-Terry