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Drill and Tap

Paul Fredricks_9
Paul Fredricks_9 Member Posts: 315
in THE MAIN WALL
I have a customer who needs a main vent at the end of one of their mains. Here are the issues: The elbow at the end of the main is behind a piece of plywood with a breaker panel and misc other electrical item mounted to it, so I can't move the plywood. The pipe to the elbow passes through a stone foundation into a crawl space. The 2" pipe sticks out from the wall about 3", and then there is a T that goes to a radiator. There is very little room to work in this space, and no real room to cut things apart and fit in another T for the vent.

Can this 2" pipe be drilled and tapped? The main sizes out for a Gorton #1. This is 2 pipe steam, so for now I put the #1 on the return in hopes to move a bit more air through the system.

Comments

  • Brad White_203
    Brad White_203 Member Posts: 506
    Paul, can you

    install a cross-over trap from the end of the supply to the return?

    A trap will pass much more air than most air vents.

    Then you can vent the return main from the dry-side before it drops, if that is possible. I am hoping that will be in a much more accessible location.

    Your thoughts?
  • Unknown
    Unknown


    Paul- I'm a homeowner but had the same problem a few years ago. You might want to look at a "Pipe Saddle Tap for Steel"

    http://www.mcmaster.com/

    Page 89 in the catalog - The part number for a 3/4 female to fit a 2" pipe is # 4572K122 The length is 3 1/4 inches long which might be tight for you. The gasket is only rated for 180 degrees. I've had one in place for 4 years and had no problems. I figured if the rubber went I could always use JB Weld instead.

    I originally thought about drilling and tapping but was a bit concerned about the threads on the nipple protruding into the pipe and also about the lack of threads. I was thinking about reinforcing /sealing the nipple with JB Weld around the outside if I had done it that way. The saddle was much easier to install and looked a lot cleaner.

    If you haven't used them before, McMaster is very reliable and can get it to you over night if need be.

    Edit: Just remember we temporarily installed a close nipple as a "drill bushing" to protect the saddle threads and then drilled the main pipe the same size as the pipe "bushing"ID.

    - Rod
  • scrook_2
    scrook_2 Member Posts: 610
    EPDM gasket...

    If the gasket temperature rating's an issue you could buy EPDM rubber sheet material from McMaster search for "EPDM rubber sheeting" and cut a new gasket. EPDM will hold up well in hot water & low pressure steam service. Rod, I assume the gasket's a flat sheet. How thick though, do you recall?
  • Unknown
    Unknown


    As best I can remember (4 years ago) it was a form fitted gasket. I'm pretty sure you could, if needed, cut a piece of sheet rubber gasket that would work with low pressure steam.

    The "Plan B", if the gasket ever failed, was to bed the saddle in JB Weld. From what I can see it's holding up fine after 4 years. It's a nice clean fitting - painted blue.
  • Steamhead (in transit)
    Steamhead (in transit) Member Posts: 6,688
    Paul, we drill and tap

    all the time, with nary a problem. You can drill that main for 1/2" pipe, mount your #1 on it and be done. Note that if you drill into the side of the pipe, hold your tap so it will cut the threads with a slight upward pitch so the pipe can drain.

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  • The Steam Whisperer (Formerly Boilerpro)
    The Steam Whisperer (Formerly Boilerpro) Member Posts: 834
    It would be easier....

    to tap for an 1/8 inch npt and put the vent on that. 1/8 inch pipe flows plenty to keep up with the big Gorton.

    Boilerpro

    To Learn More About This Professional, Click Here to Visit Their Ad in "Find A Professional"

    There was an error rendering this rich post.

  • bob young
    bob young Member Posts: 2,177


    WELD ON A BOSS. [THREAD-O-LET ] end of story
  • Paul Fredricks_11
    Paul Fredricks_11 Member Posts: 12


    Thanks for all the replys everyone.

    Brad, there is a vent on the dry part of the return. It was suppose to be a Gorton #1, but I put the #2 on it that should be on the main. So I'm venting the main and all the radiators on that zone through the return. Haven't heard back from the home owners yet to see how that's working out.

    Rod, possibly, but if Frank says drill and tap, no problem, that's what I'll look at doing, if the customer wants to spend the extra money.

    Bob, no way I want to weld where this is located. Not only a fire hazard, but the quarters are too tight. Drill and tap has to be the way to go.

    I'll let you know if we end up doing anything.
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