Can't get the CO2 right? Buderus 115-28 w/ riello

Saggs

So I changed my settings to what was posted above and was able to get my CO2 down to 12%, even 11%, but I can't seem to get rid of the trace of smoke or the stronger than usual smell of combustion. I can smell it outside from the chimney if the wind is right. I still cant figure what has changed since the first 3 yrs when it ran like a top? Anyone had problems w/ the nozzle seat area or a leak in the nozzle feed piping? Maybe some leakage there?

Saggs

I've got a Buderus G115-28 w/ riello (standard vent) that I installed in my own home 6yrs ago. Since last winter I've been unable to get my CO2 readings below 14% even w/ the air shutter open wide. I had zero issues w/ it the first 4 1/2 yrs. I've installed a bunch of these and am wondering what may be going on. Draft in my lined chimney at the breech is -.03" running, pump pressure is at the factory spec 190psi, air shutter 5.2 using a .65-80B nozzle. I've tried a 60 deg nozzle but no luck. It's showing a heavy trace of smoke on the tester as well. The CO was up around 35ppm. Any thoughts?

R Mannino

Fuel Pressure

I thought the factory fuel pressure setting was 145 psi.

Saggs

It says 190 psi on the sticker on the burner housing. Headset at 0.0. So this is where all is set to. Used to run fine?

Robert O'Brien

You've got

some bad specs there. A 115/28 is a .65 60B Delavan @ 145PSI Turbulator is 2.0,air is 3.5.This is an F-3? You have an analyzer?

scrook_2

Looks like you're sightly overfired. Crank the 190 psi down to 145 psi, so she fires at 0.8 GPH vs. the present 0.9 GPH w/ a Delavan 0.65 60° B (not 80°). Breech -.03" is good. Gross stack should be ~365°F.

See: http://www.buderus.net/LinkClick.aspx?fileticket=KYdgnKejRHY=&tabid=77&mid=414

Fred Harwood_2

Soot

And scrub her out before retesting.

Norm Harvey

With nearly every Buderus/Riello Ive installed I've had problems withthe insertion depth of the blast tube. Play around with that a little bit and observe the readings on your analyzer.

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Bob Bona_4

I've been

concerned with that issue too, Norm, The tube is about 3" proud of the swing door into the fire box. I had my wholesaler check some new stuff in the warehouse and they said that's what they found too. I called Buderus tech and they told me that's SOP.

Goes against all I've been taught about insertion depth, but some one had to have tested this stuff, right?

Bob Bona_4

sounds

right. I put a 28 in almost every week and should know that by heart.

Saggs

Thanks for the advice on the settings. Why was I able to get it running in the sweet spot for 3yrs and now I'm having issues? I think youre right about it being overfired though.

dana_3

boiler

same boiler as i have. 65-60-w @ 190 psig, HEAD AT ZERO. air @ 5.2 to start. mine runs at 13.2 co2 all day long. been in since 03, opened and cleaned every other year, when i change the oil filters. ( one at each tank rf1's and garber at boiler ).boiler has logomatic 2107. oil consumption down from 800 to 625

Saggs

That is what I was running as the nameplate states. Except I havent trried a W nozzle yet. Mine ran fine for 3yrs, now it seems to be having issues. These things are sually workhorses. Thx

dana_3

boiler

i find the W nozzles work best . at 145psi your flame is impinging on the sides of the boiler, causing the trace of smoke through different levels of co2.you can also try .60-70-A at 200 psi

Saggs

Dana, why do you think it's having issues now if everything else is still the same,as far as setup, draft, etc? I'll try the .60-70A @ 200psi and see if that cleans it up.

steve_29

You may have a bad nozzle, have you changed nozzles?

I would bump the pressure back up to 175.

I would try a 70* nozzle and see what happens.

Big Ed_4

What could change

Loss of combustion air ? Dirty fan or a tight boiler room ...

Product could change , oil today will start to break down in 6 months . Some states allow Bio fuel to be mixed with fuel oil. We hope we receive the same mix on every drop ... Hope they don't dump the extra corn oil at the end of the season before it turns ransit ?

Big Ed_4

Blast Tube

The reason why we always set the blast tube flush or slightly set in from the combustion wall was to prevent the end cone from burning ... Back in the day where the burners fires temperature was lower. A combustion chamber was used to reflect heat back to help complete combustion. If the blast tube was into the chamber too far after the burner shut off the hot chamber radiant heat back to burn off end cones. Since a Buderus does not use a combustion chamber the end cone will not burn off.

Hope this helps

D107

newest buderus spec chart is from 6/08

Interesting that apparently many settings listed in this thread are from the 2005 chart. Attached is the newer one, but perhaps each has come to use what works in their specific situation. They've changed quite a few things, including gross stack temp, pump pressure etc.

David

steve_29

I recently had an issue with a 115/28 with Riello.

It was suggested by Riello, to bump the pressure up to 175# from 145#.

He made a statement that there were many issues with fuel and increasing the pressure corrected some.

Yes... it is outside the manufacturers normal,but changes sometimes are required.

By the way, this boiler quieted down tremendously, the only problem I have now is coking of the head.

I'm gonna try removiing the 80* and installing the 70* if I have anymore problems.

Unknown

Possible air leak in oil line? If it ran fine and you now have problem. I have found when this occurs it is an oil issue. Rather it be quality, air leak, or temperature.

John Parcak

Needs inhanced clean fuel

Sounds like you've done all the right stuff. Try some Avolox in your fuel tank to stabilize the crud laden fuel and see if your original set up was correct.

My bet is you did it right the first time....Regards...JP