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Broomell Vapor Heating
DanHolohan
Member, Moderator, Administrator Posts: 16,600
and thanks for making me smile at my memories of Bill Wyatt. He was a good friend and a great teacher. You are his legacy.
Retired and loving it.
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Broomell Vapor Heating
I have visited a home that is an old Broomell Vapor Heating system. the only thing that is is missing is the original boiler and the Reciever. The boiler was replaced with a modern gas boiler with main vents installed on the return piping. The condenser coil is still connected to the chimney, but the negative pressure (draw effect) of the flue is now sepperated from the system because the inlet of the coil is conected below the water line on the new boiler.
Does anyone have info on the correct installation of a modern boiler on this type of system?
Thank you,
Jim0 -
I've seen one
This system uses the radiator outlet ells with the cast water trap. I'm just " bumping " this so the folks who really know can help you.0 -
broomell search
while you are waiting for the broomell team to log on here is the recent broomell material,--nbc
http://forums.invision.net/Search_Results.cfm?CFApp=20 -
thanks, I am considering reconnecting the condenser coil directly to the returns, replacing the # 75 main vents with #76 vacuum vents. Also plan on replacing 0-4psi range vapor stat with a 0-16oz vapor stat honeywell# L408A1165 and setting to 6-8oz,
unless someone suggests something different.0 -
I wouldn't use vacuum vents
they don't work well with oil or gas firing, since the air doesn't always get completely out before the burner shuts off.
Use one or more Gorton #2 vents, each of these has about three times the capacity of the Hoffman #75.
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What about the thought of removing vents on returns and reconnecting the condensing coil. This is still connected
to the chimney and I drilled pipe near base to get a pressure reading. It was -.04. From everthing I've read this was a key part for proper operation of this type of system.0 -
Some More Information
As I recall the Bromell system used hot water radiators and not steam radiators. Each system was custom designed by the manufacturer. It was designed to make steam at about 170 degrees and that would save a lot of money. You can look at the Resources section on this web site and go to Library and then go to vapor systems. I believe there are a number of documents concerning Bromell systems. They were one of the highest quality vapor systems ever made. I believe that they were also designed for oil and gas as well as coal. It has been a while that I read their literature so my memory may not be 100% correct. You are lucky to have this fine system. Do you have the original factory drawings? If not you may want to check at your local zoning board or deed office and see if there is a copy of the original drawings.0 -
Jim,
pipe the new boiler for what it needs in the way of near-boiler piping. It's essential that you keep the high-limit pressure lower than 10 ounces, so use a vaporstat. And lots of main venting if the return line no longer goes into the chimney.
If you look in the Library (under the Resources tab) you'll find a lot of original literature from Broomell.Retired and loving it.0 -
Thank you for the information. Would you suggest reconnecting the condenser coil or is it not worth the effort? It is still there.0 -
Only if
you continue to vent into the chimney, and please keep that pressure very low.Retired and loving it.0 -
Dan,
Thank you so much. I have been in the HVAC trade for 16 years and you have been the 2nd largest influence in my career as it pertains to learning new concepts and doing the job the right way. The 1st goes to the late William Wyatt, he was my HVAC instructor. I find myself many times being called in for advice on steam systems, and other techs are amazed at what I know. I tell them to get your book The Lost Art of Steam Heating and they wouldnt need me.
Thanks again,
Jim Wargo
Air Group LLC0 -
If you go that way
make sure you have some way of keeping steam from getting into the chimney. Steam in the chimney can make it disintegrate. The condenser was good for this as long as the pressure didn't get too high. But you never know what some knucklehead will do.....
I'd put a strap-on aquastat on the pipe from the condenser to the chimney and set it at 150 degrees or so. Wire it to stop the burner if the pipe reaches this temperature.
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