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Boiler layout

John M_5
John M_5 Member Posts: 38
I used Autocad and Made all the 3D models myself. I know is seems nuts but it's a tight space, and easier to change on paper. I decided to use smaller pumps rather then zone valves because the price is close to the same. The fan coils are only for backup and will not be used much.


  • John M_5
    John M_5 Member Posts: 38
    New install

    Hi all
    I'll be installing a new boiler soon. I was wondering if you guys could give me some feedback on this layout. It will be a burderus 142-30. I did not show the the DHW tank, or the water feed, but the taps are their. The system will have 2 zone of baseboard, 2 fan coils, 2 radiant zones.


    John M
  • Derheatmeister
    Derheatmeister Member Posts: 1,514

    Nice drawing Programme, which one is it?

    Why is it that you want to use so many circulating pump and the add. amp draw which reduces the System efficiency? and why the Buderus?
  • clammy
    clammy Member Posts: 3,086
    hydro air

    John i see you mention air handlers ,radiant and baseboard not to beat adead horse but have you looked at using panel rads instead of baseboard much cleaner look and each rad can be controlled by a trv i personally have removed all by baseboard and install buderus panel rads via multicore and wisbro mainifolds wife loves them and they definalty are easier to keep the floors clean and dust down and also allows floor base trim to be installed.Also on another note try sizing all your equiptment for low temps it will them give your mod con a chance to operate at condensing temps and as for the hydro air if your units will be located ina attic please install a freeze stat and flow check valves to stop any heat migration durning the off cycle ( supply ifc pump and spring check or thermal loop on return }and remenber to size those coils for low temp .Check out taco hfa hydro air controls real nice .Definetly do the math and reasearch so as to get the most out of your mod con by designing your raditors and heating terminal units to work at a lower temp ,in my own home my max temp at outside design temp is bout 130 at 10 outside temp system is a mix of radiant staple up and panel rads working off a single outdoor reset which floats the radiant water temp and because of panel rads resizing is suffecent enough to statisfy the heat lose where the panel rads are installed comfort excellent and ulitites bills not bad between 150 to 200 on very cold months home roughly1400 sq,ft my mod con rarely is out of condensing mode only during domestic hot water production which is via a budrus st150 tank if i had to do it again i would only change the indirect to a on demand noritz i feel that making and maintaning 40 gal of water does use a bit more engerny than a on demand and on a call from the indirect the boiler is out of it's condensing temps .Best of luck in your design also don't forget to factor in all the engery for those pumps compare to zone valves .peace and good luck clammy
    R.A. Calmbacher L.L.C. HVAC
    NJ Master HVAC Lic.
    Mahwah, NJ
    Specializing in steam and hydronic heating
  • Derheatmeister
    Derheatmeister Member Posts: 1,514
    Less energy usage and more room...

    The drawing programme makes sense Look's gut.

    Maybe you shall check on :Wilo Circs. and Zone Valves:If you use just one Pump vs Multiple Pumps your energy usage on the circ.pumps will be Muuuuuuch less also take up less room in the Mech. room! Why the Buderus and not another Brand?
  • John M_5
    John M_5 Member Posts: 38

    Derheatmeister, I chose the Buderus because they seem to have a good track record. I will also look into combining some of the pumps.
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