refractory linging life span

Matt_69

Any of you guys who understand how to do it right work in western Suffolk in Long Island?

Matt_69

Refractory lining life span

Hi All:

How long can one expect a refractory lining to last? It is installed in a 20 yr old Weil-McLain hydronic boiler with a Carlin EZ1 oil burner. I had a new one installed 3 yrs ago and it is already starting to fall apart.

Perry_5

Wrong refractory...

The proper refractory will last decades...

However, given that there is always a tendancy to offer something cheaper - I get the feeling that someone somewhere went with a cheap refractory product that is not suitable for your application. The other possibility is that refractory needs an appropriate cure time. If you fire it too soon you will greatly shorten its life. Cure times of 24 hours to several days are common.

I don't know what to recommend either. I've haven't specified/installed refractory for 15 years. Back then I bought it in 1000 Lb lots (50 Lb bags) - and even would buy refractory bricks too (we had to reline a bricked section once). This was for power plant boilers.

Most of you would be amazed at how many differen refractory products are out there. Trust me - there are products that will last many decades out there for home furnaces. They may not be the cheapest product - but they exist. Finding someone who knows which one to use in your situation...

I wish you the best:

A few hints I can offer:

1) There are companies who specialize in installing refractory for industrial applications. There is typically a contractor like this in any city of at least 50,000 - (often some construction contractor who has developed this as a sideline). If you can find one in your area - they should be able to help. Note - these people probably are not as cheap as the local home heating service contractor.

2) A quick web search turns up the following companies.

http://www.refwest.com/

http://www.tflhouston.com/

http://www.rsifibre.com/

http://www.zrci.com/

http://www.budgetcastingsupply.com/Castable_Refractory_Kast-0-Lite-26-LI.php


Keyword: Refractory.

If you use bricks - add the word "brick"

Bricks also need refractory "mortar" as well

If the product was formed in place (likely with a trowel) - add the word "castable"

http://www.sheffield-pottery.com/Kiln-Cement-and-Castable-Refractory-Mortars-s/353.htm

Hope this all helps...

Perry

oil-2-4-6-gas

Perry he's talking about a residential boiler not a commercial brickset,or scotch marine -- on your little weil mclain --you should replace it with target board in the rear and use the rest of liner kit ---the "wet pac" is what was used --they do fall apart pretty easily

Perry_5

I was aware..

I was aware that it was a residential boiler.

I just can't immagine any real reason to not have the insulation/refractory lining not last a long long time..

Your comments about how the "appropriate" lining kit falls apart easily is to me a sign of the problem. There are better materials out there - and the incremental cost is very small.

Perry

tim smith

Perry, in general the small res boilers that have refractory

liners are too small to do a hard brick or even kiln board liner in them. Usually it is a flexible wet pack than can go in these or preferably a preformed qucikie firepot which will last longer. I would usually expect appx 7-10 yrs from one of these if installed properly combustion set up well. We also some times to poured in refractory but not in small residential boilers and this is also combined with hard brick refractory walls most times. My .03 worth today. Tim

Bob Bona_4

reasons

I have seen are not due to the refractory material itself in residential boilers. Most common is overzealous cleaning, especially in W/M boilers, the corbelling gets punched out by too deep brushing. Second is damp environments and extended shut offs can make the stuff crumble. Lastly, but least common is low draft situations, and that shows it's ugly head in other forms as well.

What better materials are available to retrofit, in an approved manner, into a W/M res boiler other than OEM or Lynn? I, for one, would never, EVER, cobble up something other than factory replacement and walk away. Too much liability.

The materials available, that contractors can obtain, that are made to fit that boiler, that W/M gives it's blessing to, that have a proven and reliable performance, are what they are. That's what we have to work with.

oil-2-4-6-gas

thats a 66/68 series boiler its very common for them to fall apart after a cleaning --the rear passes are directly above the "corbelling" whatever you want to call it ---it was a bad design by the manufacturer ---thats why the gold series boilers have the rear refractory recessed ---the best way to go is have your contractor -put in a chamber kit -MINUS the wet-pac -- kaowool blanket first 1 inch up the rear wall, then the rear wall should be target board -cut and press fit ---this way it will outlast the boiler the boiler needs to be set-up with an analyzer and adjusted after ------------------------------------------------------------- THIS IS NOT COBBLING SOMETHING UP __its called fixing a WELL KNOWN problem--and taking care of the customer --

Bob Bona_4

you are

preaching to the choir. I was referring to Perry's links to "better" materials for refractory that wouldn't be used in real-life in a 68 W/M.

"Corbel" IS what that upper lip is called on the target wall.

Leo_21

If it is a cold start

If it is a cold start boiler the chunky stuff that forms falls behind the target wall and pushes it out over time.

Leo

Bob Bona_4

Possibly

Matt Sweeney from Triple Crown? Find a post with Mad Dog posting in it, and look at his ad link..