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Heat Loss or Steam Balancing Problem??

Thermostatic Radiator Vent Valves with vacuum breakers, on all radiators in rooms which tend to over-heat. I use Macon OPSK's imported and distributed by Tunstall Inc.

These are just high limit devices (will not call for heat, assumes the system is operating) but can deny air venting thus steam entry into radiators in rooms which are at temperature.

You will have to replace your vents (which screw into these valves), with straight pattern types.

Otherwise, it sounds like your system is in range, running nice low pressures.

I cannot say if your main vents are adequate or not, without knowing the sizes and lengths.


  • FJL
    FJL Member Posts: 354
    Is It One or the Other? Or Both?

    I live on the second floor of my four story, four unit apt building. The sensor for the t-state is in the apt on the top floor. As a general rule, my apt will be a few degrees warmer than the temp in the top apt. On really cold days, the top floor apt gets colder more quickly than the other floors and causes the boiler to run more often, which means that on really cold days, my apt tends to get overheated. Can this problem be solved by better balancing of radiators, such as by making the top floor rads vent quicker and slowing the venting of the lower floor rads, or is it just a problem that the top floor will lose heat quicker than everybody else and a certain amount of uneven heating is inevitable by putting the sensor in that apt?
  • nicholas bonham-carter
    nicholas bonham-carter Member Posts: 8,576
    top floor venting

    have a look at all your vents, including the main vents. they need to do most of the venting of the whole system, and may need higher capacity. then i would put more capacious vents on the top floor rads, as those vents have to get the air out of the risers as quickly as possible.

    also check your pressure, and set it as low as possible [under 16 ounces is best ].

    lastly also check your thermostat for the anticipation setting.the newer digital honeywells use a system of "cycles per hour" and as it is desireable to have the poiler run longer time and fewer cycles, this is set to 1CPH. the old mercury ones can also do a good job, if set to run longer burn sessions.--nbc
  • Fred Harwood_2
    Fred Harwood_2 Member Posts: 195

    Yes, faster venting to the top apartment may improve that situation, as can variable or thermostatic vents on the rads in the other apartments. This site has the info you're looking for. Try searching.
  • FJL
    FJL Member Posts: 354
    Lowering the Pressure

    Thanks for the tips. Out t-stat is set at 1 CPH. Current pressure settings are as follows: Main = 1 psi, and substractive differential is 12 ounces. I hope that is the right terminology. What lower setting do you suggest?

    Also, main vent has 1 Hoffman 75, and three Gorton #1's. We also have two Gorton #1's on each riser in the building. I'll have to check what vents are in each apt. My apt has all Gorton #6's.
  • FJL
    FJL Member Posts: 354
    Figuring Venting

    I purchased the Gill and Pajek materials and need to sit down and try to figure out how whether my current venting is sufficient for length and size of pipe.
  • FJL
    FJL Member Posts: 354
    Figuring Venting

    I purchased the Gill and Pajek materials and need to take some time to figure out whether I have the sufficient venting for my mains and risers. Before a new boiler was installed last summer, the only venting we had was the Hoffman 75 on the main and the vents on the rads. The Gortons #1s are all newly installed.
  • FJL
    FJL Member Posts: 354
    What Do You Mean by \"Straight Pattern Types\"

    Thanks Brad. I'll keep those TRV valves in mind. I don't think I understand what you mean when you say that I'll have to replace my vents with straight pattern types. I saw what the Macon OPSK's look like. Do I not just screw them into where my current valves are screwed in?
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