TigerLoop install

Hank_5

You can use either inlet port. It's usually neater to use the bottom inlet. Also, with the flex lines, be sure there is no excessive bend on them. The inner liner will squeeze closed over time.

Jon Held_2

TigerLoop install

Quick background:
2 year old WM SGO3 steamer who's efficiancy has been reclaimed by a second installation removing the copper above the water line, adding a 2 1/2" to 3" drop header, fully insulating the mains and near boiler piping, yadda, yadda. Add in some periodic TSP cleanings with good skimming, proper flue gas analysis and air flow tweeking, and she really cooks.

I had been waiting to get a TigerLoop and the funds finally became available. I amassed all the correct black piping and 1800 PSI 304 SS braided fuel line for the installation.

My question (after searching the interwebs for a while) is the correct ports to use on the Beckett Clean Cut pump. Currently, the canister filter feeds the inlet port on the top right (looking at the pump). However there is a second inlet port on the bottom left along with a bypass/return on the bottom right. I realize that the bypass/return port feeds the TL return, but which inlet port do I use for the feed from the TL to the pump?

Clear as mud?

Jon Held_2

Thanks for the quick reply Jim. All lengths have been agonized over for a while now

Is there a reason behind the 2 inlet ports on the pump?

helpingothershelpthemselves_2

clean cut pump inlet ports

Strictly for convenience depending on your application .

JaredM

bypass plug

Don't forget to install the bypass plug into the pump (behind the plug in the return port)and then pipe your new flexible supplies into the pump. The plug comes with all new pumps in a small plastic bag and may or may not still be there.

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Jon Held_2

> Don't forget to install the bypass plug into the

> pump (behind the plug in the return port)and then

> pipe your new flexible supplies into the pump.

> The plug comes with all new pumps in a small

> plastic bag and may or may not still be

> there.

>

> _A

> HREF="http://www.heatinghelp.com/getListed.cfm?id=

> 451&Step=30"_To Learn More About This

> Professional, Click Here to Visit Their Ad in

> "Find A Professional"_/A_

Jon Held_2

Not sure what you mean by the bypass plug. Right now the unit is set up for single pipe using the top right inlet port. There are no "extras" with this pump as it was a complete OEM from WM including the Beckett AFG burner and all related asssemblies. I have not opened the other ports on the pump as the unit is in use heating my home.

lee_7

The bypass plug should have been left by installing contractor. DO NOT use tigerloop until you get a plug. If you are missing it, let me know and I can mail you one. You can email me off site with your info.

Jon Held_2

LOL. The term "installation contractor" made me laugh. But I suppose their original knucklehead installation is what led me down the path to Dan H in the first place. They did everything related to the installation incorrectly. From reducing bushings on the boiler outlet to copper above the water line to blocking the skim port with electric. They even installed the flue wrong. I see no reason to expect anything but mistakes from them. The only port they opened was that one inlet.

lee_7

they would not have installed bypass plug unless making oil delivery a 2 pipe system, but you have only a 1 pipe supply, which is fine in most cases.

burnerman_2

Sorry but I always take the by-pass plug on install .Those inlet opening's on most are so small if? the plastic bag would get tangled up may cause sooting. and if a homeowner finds it may think we forget to install when not needed on a one pipe.most oil burner techs have a doz. or more in thier van.

Leo_20

All this talk

All this talk about inlets and by pass plugs, is the Tiger Loop even needed on this job? Is it an overhead line or a gravity fed line over the floor?

Leo

Jon Held_2

Good question. The oil tank is in the basement along with the boiler. The oil supply line from the tank runs under the slab (I know this is potentially bad and will be addressed eventually) and pops up next to the boiler. I assume this is a gravity feed.

The "need" for the TL is questionable at best, but if running cleaner oil (TL has a spin on automotive filter and will be downstream of the current felt filter canister) with less air will squeeze another drop of efficiency out of my unit, then it's all worth it to me.

Leo_20

Now that makes more sense

In your case you don't really need the Tiger Loop just an additional filter. But with what you said, abandon the old ? under slab oil line. Run an overhead line and use the Tiger Loop then. Now you have your loop and a new worry free line.

Leo

Jon Held_2

First off, Happy New Year to all.

Leo, I thought that the primary function of the TL was to de-aerate and filter the oil. I assume that the single pipe fluid specs of the pump (vertical 8' max) will still apply since there will be no return to the tank. My basement height is around 7', closer to 6 1/2' from the bottom of the oil tank to ceiling. Will running this close to spec effect efficiency at all? It has to be putting a higher load on the pump.

Leo_20

Not filter

The Tiger Loop's job isn't to filter, they can be bought with a filter but that isn't their function. They de-aerate
as you said. If you went overhead and used a Tiger Loop you would have no problems. The Tiger Loop is not an efficiency device, it is used in place of a two pipe system eliminating the return pipe which is a potential source of an oil leak/spill.

If an oil supply line is tight and gravity fed why should there be a need to de-aerate? If it is overhead with potential dips and pockets to trap air that is a different story.

Leo

Jon Held_2

Hmmm. So I made a frivolous purchase? How unlike me
Well, I have it and all the associated bits. The knuckleheads plumbed the oil with all hard line so it's difficult and very messy to service. I will use it anyway, replumb the feeds to the pump with flexible line, and make the whole unit easy and clean to service.

That's worth the cost of admission in my book. How's that for rationalization?

Bob Bona_4

nah,

I have same set up at my house. At one point I was drawing off the top of an old tank one pipe, thus the TL, now on a new tank, gravity, I'm keeping it.

Why? I've bled enough pumps in my 20 years of service work

scrook_2

"My basement height is around 7', closer to 6 1/2' from the bottom of the oil tank to ceiling."

If you use an overhead line it forms a siphon: the weight of oil in the downward leg offsets the weight of the oil in the upward leg, the pump doesn't know the rise and fall is there.

Re the Tiger Loop, if you're not getting occasional trip outs of the primary, your oil supply's probably fine as is. In any case, any tubing should be terminated w/ flare fittings (no pipe dope!), NOT compression fittings. Threaded pipe fittings should be made up w/ pipe dope NOT Teflon pipe tape.

You could put a second spin-on oil filter at the burner(Garber or equiv.) w/o the tiger loop.

If you put the new oil line in the floor use plastic coated oil line and run it thru "smurf tube" (plastic flexible electrical conduit -- generally Smurf blue colored)

scrook_2

"My basement height is around 7', closer to 6 1/2' from the bottom of the oil tank to ceiling."

If you use an overhead line it forms a siphon: the weight of oil in the downward leg offsets the weight of the oil in the upward leg, the pump doesn't know the rise and fall is there.

Re the Tiger Loop, if you're not getting occasional trip outs of the primary, your oil supply's probably fine as is. In any case, any tubing should be terminated w/ flare fittings (no pipe dope for flare nuts!), NOT compression fittings. Threaded pipe fittings should be made up w/ pipe dope NOT Teflon pipe tape.

You could put a second spin-on oil filter at the burner (e.g. Garber) w/o the tiger loop. With a vacuum gauge on the spin-on you'll know when it needs changing. Service the tank canister filter annually.

If you put the new oil line in the floor use plastic coated copper fuel oil line and run it thru "Smurf tube" (flexible plastic electrical conduit -- generally Smurf blue colored).

walnuts

I agree with scrook, if possible abandon the underground oil line and run a new line, encased in ent or a poly wrapped line around the perimeter of the basement. If doorways, or other obstacles are a problem run it overhead with your tigerloop- but if the line is below the burner a tiger loop will gain you nothing.

Bob Bona_4

except

not having to bleed the pump post run out/service