To condense or not?

captbuderus_2

I figured the diff. from the yellow to the blue to the blue cond. and it's about $1800.00 max. I would really like to see some piping lay outs as I primarily do higher temp. applications and I want to do it right for him I can provide a personal e-mail if you would rather do it that way.

captbuderus_2

to condense or not?

I have a good friend who has built a garage and has installed radient tubes. He has 2 manifolds 1 with 7 circuit and 1 with 6. All tubing is 3/4"
He is going to go with a Buderus and the question is, 1 go with regular yellow flame, standard blue flame or blue flame cond.
I feel the blue cond. is perfect for this app.Any pros/cons? Also what would be the best way to pipe it? He has a 4 way that came with the tube.Please if possible include any piping drawings you would recommend.
Thanks in advance for your help.

Unknown

I have never,

had the privilege of installing a Buderus,, but I had no idea their sizes are chosen by flame color.

What did I miss?

Dave

captbuderus_2

Blue flame/ yellow flame

That is not the sizes. they make a "regular" yellow flame, and they also make low nox blue flame and a condensing low nox model

Mark Custis

I would condense

due to the lower tempurature required for a high mass radiant floor.

Darin Cook_5

Buderus G125BE

The GB 125BE is the perfect match for that radiant floor. You pipe with no mixing devices and use the Logamatic for outdoor reset. BUT for a garage only application the GB 125BE is CONSIDERABLY more money. I would have to crunch some numbers but you are talking a 93+% AFUE oil boiler which is top shelf equipment. The best bang for the buck oil wise with no real information bout the job would be the G 125BE 89+ AFUE. No special venting like the GB 125BE and you could easily sidewall vent or go into a masonry chimney with a stainless liner. Either way though you cannot go wrong with this equipment no matter which model that you choose!






Darin

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klaus

agree w/ the GB125

A great condensing oil boiler, BUT...........
it only condenses if piped right for condensing. Meaning DON'T use the 4/way mixing valve. Use the Buderus 3/way valve, ran off the 2107 control, to get the most out of it.
THis boiler is actually designed for condensing on the returns only, so you want more direct returns from the slab, than you can eaisly get from a 4/way.
It is not designed for condensing in the cast section much, so there are min supply temps to keep in mind. THe back of the boiler (return side) is where this boiler is designed to condense.
Personally I believe you still need to mix, since there are many times of year you will want a supply to the slab cooler than the 104F min. its designed for, and you have a potential for short cycling if running at these low temps. THe 2107 will shut off the pump if supply temps are below 104F.
If others have installed these for low temp radiant without mixing controls or piping, I would be real curious how well it works in milder weather.

Chris Norton

Try the GB142

The GB142 Gas Modulating Condensing boiler requires much less piping headaches. I have used many of them in similar applications. although I am not sure of your heat loss. 3/4" tube sounds a little large. I have done snowmelt with smaller tubing.

klaus

I doing high temp systems.....

It will be harder to see any payback with the condensing GB125. BUT the G125 you can run direct and use the 2107 odr and get the most out of it. The clean 90% blue flame is sure nice. Check out Buderus.net and look at some piping and wiring option for either.