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Steam boiler runs too long
Andy_29
Member Posts: 6
Well it's been confirmed - boiler is rusted through above teh water line. The unit there now is 300,000 BTU input. The closest unit is a Dunkirk PSB-9D (same brand as there now). What cost should I expect for new boiler + install? I know it need to be replaced, I don't want to be cheated though.
PS - where can I do the calculation to match the radiators to the boiler size? Anyplace on line?
PS - where can I do the calculation to match the radiators to the boiler size? Anyplace on line?
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Comments
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steam boiler
My steam heat system lately burns for much longer than it used to before giving heat - up to or over an hour. It never used to run more than 1/2 hour on coldest days. Also, the automatic water supply is going VERY often, but I see no leaks anywhere. All this cold water must slow down the boiler, I assume. I will go broke if this keeps up.
Help!!0 -
Condesate return line
Does your condesate return line run under the slab ? If so replace it ....There was an error rendering this rich post.
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no,the return line is all above the basement floor(resting on it at its lowest points).0 -
slow steam
have you had any maintainance on it recently?
once a year you should:
1.clean the pigtail.
2.check the pressuretrol operation.
3.verify the main and radiator air vents are functioning properly.
4.check and clean the burner-gas,oil?
i suspect your pressure may be off as a result of 1 and 2. this will give you wet steam. dan's book "the lost art of steam" goes into this in more detail- do you have it?--nbc0 -
Check....
....the entire lenght , Iseen them leak behind walls ans drain out of the house through cracks and pits after that check for steam leaks .
Running too long Gas or oil ? Did you remove the pipe insulation ? What change since last year ? Did some one down fire the burner ?
There was an error rendering this rich post.
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No Leaks check Main vent
If you can't find leaks in your returns then check your main vents as they might be stuck open, releasing steam and therefore adding make up water. My old system did this for a while before I found this site and became educated.0 -
Steam
Go outside and see if there is alot of steam coming out of your chimney. You may have a small leak in one of the sections. It may be evaporating before a leak shows on the floor.0 -
steam from chimney
I have noticed steam from the chimney - if there is a small leak -
a) could it lose so much water that the refill valve kicks in VERy often (every 5 minutes it seems)
b) can that be fixed or do I need a new boiler?0 -
main vents
the main vents used to let loose after a while and I would hear a strong "pshshshshsshsh" after the steam built up. I haven't heard that happen at all this year. That indicates (to me) that there is no steam pressure.0 -
will check
I recently (2 weeks ago) had the boiler cleaned - it was carboned up and one row of the burner (out of 5 I think) was not lighting, and the flame was very yellow. Now all burners are lighting and it seems to be burning better (mostly blue, some orange). They did not adjust anything, they only clean.
I will examine all of the return lines that are visible (in the basement) more closely.0 -
Steam Leak
Sounds like a steam leak above the water line as others have said. Manually fill the boiler above the normal water level until you think the entire boiler is filled. Look for leaks on the floor or in the burner compartment. You might want to shut the burner down at the thermostat when testing.0 -
rad EDR
You can get a book on this site for rating rads. The replacement boiler should be closely matched to the radiation EDR, plus, say 20% for cold starts. A matched system is golden, cycles are few, and no hissing or spitting, provided your vents work, your mains are insulated and in good shape, and your new boiler header is by the book. Don't forget to skim, skim, skim.0
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