Dirty Water

NShak

My boiler water is tremendously dirty... Looks like a thick liquefied rust. When the system is cold, the glass gauge is essentially clear, but once it fires up, the water agitation kicks up all that rusty residue and you can't see through the glass gauge.

When it's cold, I'll open the rear spigot and drain some water out... first comes some rusty water, then it usually clears fairly quickly (I assume it's all settled to the bottom).

Is there a better way to clean out this residue?
Or do I have to keep a draining a little out every day?

Steve_168

i have oil in my sight glass from a skim. it sits on top of the water.

How do i clean the water out the sight glass?

do i close the top valve and bottom vavle in between the glass to release the water from the spigot underneath the bottom valve?

what is the proper procedure?

nicholas bonham-carter

a-drain-a-day-keeps-the-mud-away

yes, but maybe weekly will be adequate. i am sure this is rust particles, which settle to the bottom during non-burning periods. on my wet return i have 2 long magnetic tool-holders stuck to the pipe to try to trap it before it goes into the boiler.
why not catch some in a saucepan, and put in a jar and see if it is attracted to a strong magnet.
you want regular removal of this to prevent it solidifying in the bottom of the boiler and insulating the water from the fire..--nbc

nicholas bonham-carter

oily water in sight glass

yes. close the gauge-cocks; and open the bottom drain of the glass to empty the water out. might be a good time to clean the glass tube while you are at it. if the residue returns, then more skimming is needed-sometimes 5 times does the trick!--nbc

Steve_168

So i understand you NBC, i close BOTH valves between the sight glass and open the drain below to let the water out correct?

do i need to shut off the water feeder?
do i need to add water once i drain the sight glass?

Thanks in advance.

NShak

So you think there's no other way than just patience, draining, and maybe your magnets?

When this rust gets tossed up during the heating cycle, it shouldn't make the boiler less efficient (ie: raise the boiling point)... correct?

Thinking out loud here, but...
Unlike chemicals IN SOLUTION which could cause a boiling point elevation, these rust particles are IN MIXTURE, so the boiling point should stay the same. I think this would be correct, but it's been a long time since high-school physics.

Big Ed_4

Fixing all your steam leaks keeps the mud away

Muddy water is a sign of steam leaks. Mud or dirty water is the solids left behind after the water boils off and out of the system. If the system is tight you dont have to add water and water will be clean.

Steam leaks cause the boiler to run longer then needed and rots out system from the added oxygen.

Added note, if you have to add water all the time and water is clear. Then it is a sign of a return leak.

FJL

Steam Leak from where

You're talking about a steam leak in the boiler itself? As opposed to somewhere else in the system.

Steve_168

any commments on this post? planning on getting it done tonight since we are gonna get big time snow!

So i understand you NBC, i close BOTH valves between the sight glass and open the drain below to let the water out correct?

do i need to shut off the water feeder? do i need to add water once i drain the sight glass?

Thanks in advance.

Steve_168

So i understand you NBC, i close BOTH valves between the sight glass and open the drain below to let the water out correct?

do i need to shut off the water feeder? do i need to add water once i drain the sight glass?

Thanks in advance.

nicholas bonham-carter

sight-glass

yes. close both valves[called gauge-cocks] on the sight-glass, then open the drain cock on the bottom. the water will drain out, and actually while you are there unscrew the nuts holding the glass tube in place, and clean it if it is dirty.

check it in a week and if the oil is back re-skim.--nbc


PS naturally you will have to open the gauge-cocks at the end of this procedure. i doubt if the auto-feeder will even detect the difference.

tim smith

Be careful when taking glass out and putting back in, can break

quite easily. Should have new gaskets on hand also. Stuff is pretty tough but will still break. Tim

Unknown

I agree with Tim

Don't try to mess with the glass itself , unless you have another handy with the rubber seals .

Best way to clean the glass is to close both glass valves and open the bottom petcock . Keep a bucket under the petcock and while it's steaming , open the upper glass valve . It'll actually shoot steamy water down the glass , cleaning it up like new . Be sure to close the upper valve and petcock before you reopen both valves . That water is damn hot .

But don't count on it staying clean for long if the boiler water is dirty .

Steve_168

Thanks everyone.

Big Ed_4

Escaping steam .....

..... Leaves the solids behind. A leaking return will flush out the solids. Still it's important to flush out Low water cut offs and the bottom of the boiler and returns. Even if all leaks are taking care of. But mud ? Steam leaks..... run up the boiler and walk around the house , you will hear the leaks . Repack leaky packing nuts, replace leaky vents. Always buy good slow valves.I like the Hoffman 1( A or for adjustables.Best built radidator vent made. They are long lasting float type vents. You will pay a good buck for them but worth it in the long run. The 40 (A or are non adjustable cheaper models. Float type and I found them cheaper then HomeCheapo.

Check the main vents too. I would go with Gordens there.

After system is tighten up and returns are checked . If your still loosing water check the chimney for condensation. Boilers can leak too.

When I sell a steam boiler I also tighten up the system end for a charge .. I always install metered feed valves. 2-3-4 pounds a year used. I do instruct them to flush too...

FJL

Leaking Steam

Thanks for the explanation.

NShak

Thanks to everyone for their posts.

Looks like I have to change a valve in the master BR.
And get someone who knows what their doing to fix my near-piping.

Hopefully that will help decrease my boiler running time, decrease the wet steam, maybe decrease some water hammer, and decrease spitting rad valves.

Thanks again!