Heating problems- see photo

alanm

Facts: 3 story house/ one pipe steam heat/new vents on radiators/main vent near boiler on return / no vents on any mains going to radiators

Problem: some rooms not getting hot/when i take off vents on those radiators, they then get hot.

Photos: any problems you can see with system? Header should be iron (like it was prior to being replaced in 2007), vents off of mains? Do you need vent on return?

Thanks for your help

David Nadle

Maybe you need new/bigger vents on those radiators?

Ross_7

Main vents

That is an incorrect main vent. That's a Hoffman # 74 for Unit heaters. You need to install new main vent(s) based on the length & the size of your mains. This information is available on this website. Good Luck!
Ross

alanm

Heating Problems- see photo

I have the adjustable Hoffman vents (opened all the way)- what other ones are available ?

alanm

Heating Problems- see photo

So that vent on the return line is not right? Should there be a main vent on the return? What about vents on the mains heading to the radiators? having them , will that make the radiators heat better?

Phil_17

Insulate all those pipes...

I know it seems silly, but it makes a HUGE difference.

You are losing a lot of heat right there in the basement (especially with the copper), and heat lost there cannot make it to the desired location.

Once insulated the heat will go where you want it to go and it will go there much more quickly and efficiently. The heat currently coming out of those pipes is causing water to condense out inside. The phase change creates a local vacuum in a place where it was never intended to occur, which subsequently keeps the steam from reaching the farther extents of the system. Additionally, the heat released in the basement is not doing that much to heat the house (R values of the floors above) so much as it is warming the foundation and nearby ground.

Insulate the mains and you're problems may likely be solved...

nicholas bonham-carter

main vent

the main vent is usually put on the very end of the main, close to it dropping down to the floor by the boiler [it could also be called the dry return there].it does need to be protected from vertical or horiz. water-hammer.
the correct hoffman vent is a no. 75; however there are more quick vents made by gorton, which some prefer.
the vents should be chosen so that each main is vented at the same time as the rest.therefore a short run of 20 ft. will have a smaller vent than its 100 ft. neighbor.the returns will ideally all get hot at the same time.once the mains are full of steam the rad vents only have to handle the interior of the rad plus a bit of pipe to it.-nbc

alanm

Heating Problems- see photo

Nicholas- thanks. So besides that "vent for the return", there should be vents at each main- where it starts heading up to the radiators, correct? With 3 floors, there are about "6 mains" heading upwards- there should be a vent on each one?

nicholas bonham-carter

vent

just have a vent on the return close to the elbow dropping down to the boiler.at the minimum a hoffman 75. if there is more than one return each one will need it's own vent.
there could be some situations where the vent would be out on the end of the main away from the boiler but i doubt if you have a counterflow system.you will see in dan's book the prefered method of protecting the vent from water-hammer.--nbc

Paul Pollets

Piping

Aside from the venting issue, the copper pipes should be replaced with Sch 40 blk. iron and steam fittings. Copper does not hold up to the steam expansion. The equalizer heading back to the Hartford loop should be 11/4", and also iron pipe. Insulate with 1" wall fiberglass and you're system will perform. Remeber to "blow down" regularly in heating season. You may want to consider Dan's book, "The Lost Art of Steam Heating".

To Learn More About This Professional, Click Here to Visit Their Ad in "Find A Professional"

alanm

Heating Problems- see photo

Paul,

thanks- i am working with contractor to replace copper with iron, which was there originally. Besides the vent at the return, some say i need vents on the mains heading to the radiators- is that correct? What else would make the radiators get hot, only when i take off their individual vent? Thanks

nicholas bonham-carter

vent help

just see if the steam gets in the mains more quickly with no vent.best to use a ball valve in its place so you can close it safely.that will show you how well your present vent is working or not working.
after you have got the steam in the mains as fast as possible the concentrate on the rads.
part of the speed of steam is pressure.low pressure+fast steam-amazing, but true!--nbc

Paul Pollets

Alan

I always vent the return with the proper main vent. And use the correct vents on the radiators making sure they're pitched to the main. This presumes the "near-boiler" piping was done correctly.


Again, all of this info is carefully detailed in "The Lost Art of Steam Heating". A very worthwhile investment.

To Learn More About This Professional, Click Here to Visit Their Ad in "Find A Professional"

Steamhead (in transit)

Sizing main vent

Measure the length and diameter of your steam main. If there is more than one main, measure them all. Post the results here and we can tell you what you need.

To Learn More About This Professional, Click Here to Visit Their Ad in "Find A Professional"