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Insulated Dropped Header

r. perry
r. perry Member Posts: 45
in THE MAIN WALL
Billy, THANKS!! for the info and link. Beautiful work. I can only hope my attempts come out looking half as good as yours.

Comments

  • Billy_12
    Billy_12 Member Posts: 25


    Finished insulating the header and mains. Still waiting for some more reinforced tape for a few of the connections. I have to tap in some new vents and then I'm done :(
    There are no rads in my kitchen and downstairs bathroom so they tend to be colder spaces. Maybe I need to install a small hydronic/radiant system :)
  • Brad White_203
    Brad White_203 Member Posts: 506
    Snug as a Bug

    Nice job, Billy, I bet she purrs like a kitten.

    My only suggestion (only? eh, you know me), is the supports and that you use saddles to keep the insulation from crushing, but also, a nice but non-essential touch, is to brush insulation cement on the exposed pipe insulation ends. Just looks nicer and keeps fibers in place.

    Other than that, nice job!

    Brad
  • David Nadle
    David Nadle Member Posts: 624
    Looks great.

    Looks like a practiced hand at work. I started my insulation job at the boiler, so my first and worst tape joints are there, instead of some inconspicuous spot on the mains. Live and learn.
  • Steamhead (in transit)
    Steamhead (in transit) Member Posts: 6,688
    Nice Job!

    and why not just add steam radiators in those rooms? You can get them in different shapes and sizes.......

    To Learn More About This Professional, Click Here to Visit Their Ad in "Find A Professional"
  • r. perry
    r. perry Member Posts: 45


    What is the material used as insulation? It almost looks like pre-formed plastic. I need to replace all the insulation on the lines in my basement and the material you used looks great. Does it have a name?? and how difficult/tricky is it to install? Thanks! Ray.
  • Marc_17
    Marc_17 Member Posts: 13


    Thank you for the compliments/suggestions. I haven't forgotten about the header support.
    Bathroom is no big deal to add a small rad, but the kitch has not 1" of wall space - its all cabinets. I have full access to the joists under the kitchen floor. I added an elec toe kick heater, but it falls short of heating the space (high ceilings), and it's sooo loud. Maybe I just want another heating project. Kitchen is about 13'w x 20'l x 12'h. I've thought of hydro/radiant, elec/radiant/ forced air, even maybe running radiant off the return water. I would say elec/radiant would be the most cost effective up front and the least labor (but who wants that?)
    Maybe I should post this question on a separate thread.
  • Marc_17
    Marc_17 Member Posts: 13


    Install was easy for me because there were no tight spots - everything was accessible. Pipe insulation was standard 1" compressed fiberglass. The fitting covers were these plastic pieces (pic attached). First I covered the straight runs. Then I wrapped the fittings with supplied loose insulation. Then cover that with the plastic covers. The covers fit over the 1" pipe insulation for a neat look. Seams and connections are sealed with reinforced white tape and a special plastic tape for the fittings. I purchased from State Supply. Here is the link:
    http://www.statesupply.com/displayCategory.do?Id=2061
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