Air Scoop

paul_91

someone install a spirovent they work great

jeff_125

Air scoop

My hydronic heating system does not have an air scoop or air serator installed, just a air bleed valve. The system was installed two years ago, since then each heating season I get one zone (the first)air bound at least two times each heating season. I suspect that each time I flush the zone to get the air out I am introducing cold water with more air which is released during the heating process. Over time I belive the air is collecting in the first zone. Do I need to add an air searator to my heating system?

Unknown

is your pump?

Is your pump on the supply and pumping away from the tank? I install weil mclain, using their built in air scoop, pumping away... perfect set up and space saving..

Brad White_203

I agree with rjb

If you properly are pumping away and have heated your water to past 140F or better yet to near limit, vent it and leave it be, you may not need an air scoop or Spirovent.

I love Spirovents but they also cannot compensate for improper pumping direction relative to the expansion tank. Or rather, any air drawn in will be vented and masked by automatic water feeding.

jeff_125

The makeup water is fed into the return side.
The expansion tank is on the supply side (the tank is inverted not hanging) followed by the three circulators. the zone that keeps giving me the problem is the first zone closest to the expansion tank. The boiler water is heated in the boiler to ~170 degrees with a low limit of 150 degrees.

Curloid

Air problems

Your system has a number of mistakes in the piping and it would be lovely to correct them all, but I suspect you are looking to just solve your recurring problem of air getting in and stopping flow in that one zone. Here is what I would do. Throw out the old-style expansion tank (that is what you have, right?) and install a modern Extrol tank where the water and the air do NOT have any direct contact (they are separated by a rubber bladder). Now install a Spirovent (or any of several other brands of "enhanced air separator") and you will likely be all set. Would it be better to repipe your whole system so that you "pump away" and bring your water feed in on the pressure side of the circulators (specifically at the "point of no pressure change")? Sure it would. But I suspect all that is not necessary. Good luck.

Brad White_202

Then I suspect that zone

needs a good purging and or venting. Air is captive at the high end. The piping sounds ideal.

Be patient, it may take some time.

ScottMP

Jeff

What pressure is the systems running at ? It may be so low that your getting air in arge enough bubbles to cause problems. Try raisng the pressure to about 15/18 lbs. Is it possible your boiler has a built in air vent ?

Scott

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jeff_125

That is another story, the pressure in the system is 35psi the pressure has been increasing over time. The installer put the pressure regulator in vertically and I think that is not a good orientation.

tommyoil

Considering

that the PRV is set at the factory to 12 psi and the relief valve designed to relieve at 30 psi, at 35 psi.... I'd say you have a problem.