Still trying Alan & Frank

Unknown

their specs Frank, no apparent problems with mine.<BR>A little <i>miffed</i> though at what kind of #s I should be looking for on unpublished(older) atmospheric units.<BR><BR>Dave

Unknown

Took these tests today on

my own Solo 60, rather mild day but still good #s.
Took me forever to even start getting-on to this computer, hope this learning process is a little easier!

Dave

Steamhead (in transit)

It gets easier

as you go along. How does that test compare with what TT says you should be getting?

To Learn More About This Professional, Click Here to Visit Their Ad in "Find A Professional"

Steamhead (in transit)

Most important on these

is CO- air free. Anything above 50 PPM or so is too high. Combustion efficiency will be in the low 80s at best, and may be much lower. Excess air might be as low as 40% but is often higher. CO2 % is usually in the 7- low 8 range, sometimes lower.

Power gas burners typically do much better- excess air % in mid to upper 20s, CO2 up to 9% or maybe a bit higher.

Never adjust a burner to the bleeding edge of safe combustion, unless the manufacturer so states. Always leave some headroom so a slight decrease in air supply or increase in BTU content of the gas will not cause CO production. In the absence of manufacturers specs, I generally find the "tipping point" where reducing the air supply further will cause CO, then add air to bring CO2 down by 0.5%.

Note that you may not be able to reduce the air supply that far on an atmospheric. But it is possible on a power burner.

I'd suggest taking some of Tim McElwain's classes. Tim knows more about gas combustion than all of the rest of us put together.

To Learn More About This Professional, Click Here to Visit Their Ad in "Find A Professional"