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ph neutralizer
but I figured they were good till they were gone. Never checked the PH but I've tasted it and it tastes sweet. You learn a lotta wierd stuff in the Navy and taste as a tool is one of them. Ask dan about the tastting the water on the garage floor story. Thankfully it wasn't me but I've learned to be a bit more cautious since I heard that one. LOL... ;)
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Comments
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I was hoping to get a recommedation for a ph neutralizer. I will be installing a Buderus GB142/45 next week and would love to get some feedback.
I don't think the boiler will be condensing that much it is being hooked up to a cast iron system and only a small amount of radiant floor. The boiler is making hot water so it will be running often.
How many of you install them for the condensate?
Around these neck of the woods(NYC area) alot of galvanized, and cast iron as well as copper DWV systems, and all underground building sewers/drains are extra heavy cast iron, not much PVC/ABS. I was told it will eat away at the pipe in no time. true/false? Well i was just wondering opinions, and recomendations where to buy.0 -
It Will condense,
much more than you may think.
The PH of that water is about 4 which will destroy CI sewer piping.
Get a neutralizer on-it,,, I make these up.
Dave0 -
The neutralzer
is the one on the left, just to be clear I must have gone through a handful of Makitas and DeWalts before I got that one down right.
Dave is right, Anthony. Your GB-142, especially with outdoor reset, will condense flue gasses like Readers Digest condenses "Mary-Kate and Ashley Eat Celery".
The time spent making domestic hot water is minimal for most homes and the hours required to heat a house properly in average winter weather is ripe for wringing out the heat from those flue gasses.
Consider too that CI radiators may well be over-sized, especially if the house was improved, insulated, new windows, weather stripping, re-sided with an air barrier, etc. since the house was built and the radiators installed. Cast iron radiators are an ideal emitter- plus you own them already!
Suggestion though: Install a filter or strainer on the return side to protect the boiler from returning iron particles and debris. A pre-cleaning with Rhomar Hydro-Solv and their 922 finish product is a good idea. It is routine when matching up a new boiler to an old system.0 -
Mine look like this...
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Any interior pix?
What do you put in as the neutrilizer?
When and how often is it maintained?
I'm all for making my own a little more info would be great guys.
Thanks0 -
Any similar
assembly of PVC or CPVC piping will work. The combination I like are a pair of tees with end-screw cleanout caps, inlet and outlet tees. I often use 3" fittings with 1.5" branches.
The inlet goes in the bottom via a stack taller than the unit. The outlet flows out the top so that retention time is maximized. Naturally inlet and outlet fittings have to suit the installation conditions. I like unions to break it out for cleaning.
The neutralizing medium I like is just plain marble chips (limestone) from your garden center. The finer type is good, pea-gravel size, but the 1/2" chips are good too. I test the pH about every couple of months and replace the medium every year and a half or so. Even if no degradation, the stuff gets very rusty looking so refreshment is cheap insurance.
By the way, my incoming condensate is often at a pH about 4 and when fresh chips are in, the outflow is around a pH of 8.5. I have yet to see this go below 7.5 even with older chips. 7.0 is neutral as you know.0 -
Is this
what you`re looking for?
I just use granulated soda-ash I have left over from adding to filter units tied in a sockette.
My PH always comes out as Brad says, and I change it yearly.
Dave0 -
Thanks guys, appreciate the tips, i will definatley fabricate my own.
Anthony0 -
what is your time worth?
Look into Axiom. Their NT40-A is sized for boilers up to 3,000 MBH but still cheap enough for small boilers. It should only cost you around what you would charge for 2 hours labor.
Ted0
This discussion has been closed.
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