first ever boiler install

Unknown

At first glance, it looks great!<BR>Kudos for taking the plunge.<BR><BR>Dave

T_3

First ever boiler install 3rd year local 51 plumber apprentice

How did i do guys. This replaced a old coal converted to oil steamer that took one hour and 10 mins to get my rads warm. This new burham 20 mins tops...

see anything worth changing i could have never done such a job with out this wall. keep up the good work guys!

Unknown

Ryan T

I think you forgot the pics.

Dave

Norm Harvey

Looks great!

It hard to tell from the picture but the pressure relief valve looks a little wonky. Not sure if its just reflection from the shine of the boiler jacket.

My only other criticism would be to have the hartford loop connection a tiny bit lower. Right now it looks to be at the water line where if could be a few inches lower, but that's arguable.

I'd also be interested to see a picture of the supply and return piping up near the ceiling.


Fantastic job!
I wish my first job was that good!


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Dry Steam

Nice!!

Compact install doesn't take up to much room yet leaves plenty of area to work on. I'm a novice so bear with me. Is there another drain on the other side of the boiler not shown? If not should the 90 l be swapped for a tee to facilitate a drain for the boiler itself? Also did the customer not want an automatic water feeder? But that looks like a very nice and clean install.

Brad White_203

A very credible first install

Good going, Ryan-

I do have a few comments though, but understand that these are "in progress" shots. The relief valve sitting on top loosely was a give-away, so take these for what they are worth:

1) Isolation valves on the returns ( and the Hartford Loop) so they can be better flushed (convenient, not a requirement).

2) The red-plate switch- here in MA it has to be outside the boiler room, not right on it. Your locale may be different. You may have another switch for this purpose and this is just the service disconnect, but then, that red plate should be removed and a regular cover installed.

3) Are those returns blocking the controls and LWCO? Electrical code requires clearances in front of them but those pipes do make good blocking guards

Steamhead (in transit)

I agree

very good job for your first try. Can't say the same for mine, but The Wall and "The Lost Art of Steam Heating" did not exist back then. But since you asked, here are some things I would have done differently:

1. Since that boiler needs two risers to the header, I would have used a drop header. The extra swing joint in a drop header, which doesn't have to be any more complicated than adding a street 90, means you don't have to fight the union into place. It also allows for easier expansion and contraction of the boiler sections, which should lengthen their life.

2. The boiler I&O manual says you can use a 2-inch header (horizontal pipe "B") for up to a 6-section unit. I would have gone to 2-1/2" or 3" for the header- slowing down the steam velocity at that point helps dry out the steam. Sure, it costs a bit more to do it this way, but the results are worth it. On some Vapor jobs we have used existing 4-inch or 5-inch piping to advantage, slowing the steam velocity to about what it was on the old coal boiler. Those jobs heat up fast since the steam is so much more potent!

3. I would have used an individual take-off on the header for each steam main. If there wasn't room for that, I would have made the main take-off 2-1/2" which equals two 2" branches. Again, this would reduce the steam's velocity at that point.

Again, you did well on your first try. These are things to think about on your next one.



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John Mills_4

Where's

the before picture of the monster you took out?

MikeyB

boiler

Hey Ryan, is that a Burnham IN4, or IN5? good job by the way, enjoy it...

T_3

boiler

it is a in5 works very well

Unknown

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