Help Water in Cleanout Box

ed wallace

yes it could very well be water vapor from the boiler flue gases did the installer do an effency test after installing the boiler if so could you post the numbers and if possible could you post pictures of the install?

Michael_36

Water in Cleanout Box

Hello,

I have a problem that I have been unable to resolve. I had a new oil boiler installed several months ago. I selected a sealed system where it pulls fresh air from outdoors and vents the exhaust up the chimney. Recently I noticed my chimney cleanout box was full of water. I had the chimney checked out and found it needed some repointing and a new crown. I had that work done several weeks ago as well as had the chimney water-proofed. I am still getting water in my chimney box though. The mason assured me that the chimney above ground is fine. I dug a trench around the fireplace several feet below the chimney and there was no sign of water or any holes or cracks. Can my new boiler be creating this water? The water has a brown color to it. I also noticed this morning water trickling from where the exhaust vent goes into the chimney. I am getting several pans of water from the cleanout each week. Any ideas where this could be coming from?

Brad White_191

Combustion condensation

All fuels produce various amounts of moisture when burned, even oil. If the flue gas is below dewpoint, what you are finding seems to support that, especially if there has not been rain or other obvious source.

That the stuff is brown could be old creosote leeching out of the masonry or could be new condensate. If you can test for pH and it is from boiler combustion products, it will be on the acidic side of the pH scale, less than 7.0, more likely in the 4.5 range.

There may be a flue gas leak inside the chase coupled with a possible leak in the combustion air side too, which cools it. I can only guess.

A combustion test including measuring the qualities in the combustion air (for any contaminants or flue gas products entrained in it) is a place to start. A pressure test also would be worth doing, but you picked a fine season in which to do so.

Still, I am concerned that it may be a danger potential, so I hope you have CO detectors. Get your contractor involved right away. I am sure others will have much more to add that is less obvious than what I can come up with.

Michael_36

Help

I don't know how to post pictures but the install looks very professional. The readings on the card as follows Temp 310 net, co2/2.4, smoke 0, draft -.03/-.01

Michael_36

Help

The efficiency of the boiler is 88.4%

Big Ed_4

Combustion Condensing

Your higher efficiant boiler releases lower temperature flue gases. You have a outside chimney which stays cold. North side chimneys are even colder. The flue gases are condening in the chimney.

What you need is a stainless chimney liner which would warm up faster or direct vent the boiler.

Michael_36

Do you know of any professionals in RI or should I call back the oil heating installer?

Michael_36

According to the pool test strip the water in the box did show an alkalinity or ph. In other words is was below the lowest color on the scale.

ed wallace

water in chimney

on the boiler there is a rating plate what does it say the nozzle size should be and what size does the effincy paper work says was installed?

Michael_36

It just says new boiler installed 10/15. It doesn't list the nozzle size.

ed wallace

water in chimney

the 310 degree flue temp suggest the nozzle is to small

J.C.A._3

I'll bet money.....

I'll bet that Brad and Big Ed are both telling you exactly what's happening....and what needs to be done.

If the chimney is 3 sides to the weather....it's too big for the boiler, and the flue gasses are condensing before they reach the termination.If it's a center of the home flue...you're way too low on the flue gas temp.!

I like to see the flue temp.over 350° for an oil boiler, but if the chimney was lined and sized properly, 310° is quite acceptable. With outside air being introduced to the burner....that 310° COULD be greatly exaggerated...as the differential is USUALLY determined by a sensor on the combustion tester....that is measuring the temp. in the room, and NOT the temp. air that is being introduced to the burner.
You stated that you are taking air from outside, therefore to get the real NET temp., the intake air has to be subtracted from the exhaust... at breech temp. to get a true NET STACK temp.. Your 310° could be a whole lot below what is needed to keep an oversized chimney warm enough to prevent condensation.

Line the chimney and insulate the stainless flue liner...and you'll have the wetness disappear from the breech clean out, and the clean out will no longer be in play.(of course the oil company WILL have to pull the flue pipe EVERY YEAR to check for any build-up in the breech. I don't see it happen often enough!). JCA

Michael_36

I have a large granite chimney. The water is accumulating in the fireplace clean out box. I also had an outdoor reset installed.

Michael_36

The chimney is on the side of the house

lee_7

Is the water in the fireplace chimney base or the chimney base for the heater?

Michael_36

The water is under the fireplace. In the firebox clean out box. No water in my fireplace.

lee_7

So just to clear this up, we are talking about chimney for fireplace, not chimney for heater. They are different beasts. The flue gasses from your heater mught be condensing at top and falling back down fireplace chimnay.

radioconnection_2

That could result in ice buildup blocking the flue; that should be corrected ASAP...