Boiler Cleaning? what, when, and how often?

JohnNY

Let's start here:

Burner tubes <BR>
In most gas boilers, fuel flows into tubes, mixes with air and is burned to heat the water contained in what is called the heat exchanger.<BR>
When dirt and dust build up on those burner tubes efficiency declines because complete combustion of the air/fuel mixture is hampered. As a result of rising levels of unburned fuel after the combustion process has taken place, carbon monoxide begins to rise proportionately.
The heat exchanger may also become coated with carbon brought on by the burning impurities creating far greater carbon monoxide risks.

Low water cut offs<BR>
There are two basic types of low water cut off devices: the float-type (most often used is the <A HREF="http://www.mcdonnellmiller.com/pdf/install_instr/MM-815C.pdf">McDonnel-Miller model # 67</A>) and probe-type (yours would probably be the <A Href="http://www.mcdonnellmiller.com/pdf/lit/MM-246.pdf" >PS-800 series also by McDonnel-Miller</A>). The float type should be blown down (flushed) weekly. It is made to last for ten years. After that, get a new one. Bad things can happen when they fail. <BR>
The probe type should be disconnected from the boiler and cleaned and inspected annually. It is made to last fifteen years.<BR>
<BR>

If you think you’ve been maintaining your boiler because every week or so you push down on that lever that lets out that dirty cruddy water, you’re wrong. You haven’t done much of anything for the boiler at all. That valve is there to maintain the low water cut off to which it is directly connected. <BR>
Fresh water corrodes a boiler. Every time you flush it out, you’re creating the need to add more fresh water. If that new water doesn’t boil right away, it does bad things to the cast iron and steel that contain it. <BR>

Flue and chimney<BR>
Flu piping and chimneys need to be looked at by someone who knows how a problem presents itself. Surface rust and discoloration are signs of something going wrong. <BR>
The causes are often one or a combination of the following: inadequate intake (or make-up) air for combustion, a collapsed or compromised chimney, or a serious issue inside the boiler. <BR>
The grey flue piping should connect to the boiler, its lowest point, and continue upward from there to the connection to the chimney. There it should be sealed to the bricks without gaps or holes in the penetration. <BR>

Skimming<BR>
Newer boilers need to be skimmed to get rid of the oil that lies on top of the water which prevents steam from rising and moving toward the pipes and radiators.<BR>
Every boiler contains an installation package naming a very specific connection factory-installed in the boiler called a skim port or surface blow-off location where the skimming procedure is best performed. It is the installer’s duty to screw a pipe and valve into that connection to allow for the safe and effective removal of oils from the boiler water.<BR>
If this is not done, efficiency, boiler longevity and system balance suffer.<BR>
In the boilers I see, about one in four has any provision for skimming installed. <BR>
Our installations include a new valve and follow-up skimming service after 2 weeks of use when the oils have collected and are easily removed. <BR>

Pressure <BR>
Steam heating systems operate on the principle that steam pressure created in the boiler moves the gas (the steam) to areas of low pressure throughout the building. Areas of low pressure are created by adding air vents in places like the ends of radiators and piping runs. It doesn’t take a lot of pressure to do this, little more than just enough to be different from one end to the other of the system. That being the case, having the boiler run long enough to make more pressure than is necessary is nothing but an expensive waste of fuel and money.<BR>
A trained boiler mechanic and technician knows how to set the pressure regulating device, found on every steam boiler, properly.<BR>
The device is mounted on a curled length of pipe called a pigtail which protects it from the hot steam in the boiler. The pigtail should be made of brass (yellow metal in color). If yours is made of steel (black in color) have it replaced or at least flushed clean. They inevitably clog and fail.<BR>

While I'm on a roll (rant?) here: <BR>

A word on Water Feeders<BR>
Increasing occurrences of having to add water to a steam boiler is NOT a reason to buy an automatic water feeder.
If your boiler is less than 400,000 BTUs (your boiler is probably less than 400,000 BTUs) and you’re adding water more than about every two weeks, you’ve got a problem that needs to be identified and repaired. Adding a water feeder to deal with it would be like putting a band aid on a gunshot wound. <BR>
Water feeders have their place and their people.<BR>
I happen to be a fan of the <A HREF="http://www.hydrolevel.com/pages/products04b.html
">Hydrolevel VXT</a> model. <BR>
There are countless benefits to their digital display (in number of gallons fed) and their flexibility made possible by their settable flow rate options (how much water per feed cycle) and its lockout feature which effectively prevents things like flooding a house while the family’s away. <BR>


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Janet_3

Boiler Cleaning? what, when, and how often?

How can I know when my boiler needs to be cleaned? What exactly does a cleaning involve? How often does a cleaning of the system need to happen?

The reason I ask, is because when I flush my low water cut off valve while the boiler is firing, the water comes out dark brown with rust. I usually flush about a quart of water.

Any advice is appreciated -

Janet

Jim_47

Janet, thanks for coming here for information. Please also read the post "clean and Tune" going on at this time. I am glad to hear you are perfoming the minimum safety item for your appliance. Annually you should hire a Maintenance specialist to take care of the rest of the system. Your expense to do it right will allow you to enjoy troublefree heating at the most efficient operation your appliance can operate. Ask friends for referals, check the "hire a Pro" on this site for someone in your area. Create a relationship with your company of selection and listen to their suggestions for improvements. Good Luck!

mark ransley

I am just a building owner, but every year the tubes are cleaned, boiler draned and all openongs at the bottom are removed and a hose is inserted to remove al sediment until clean, this takes hours on my old Kiwanee, if you dont do it sludge builds up and can ruin the boiler early. Burner should be adjusted, fan oiled if it has oil ports, chimney checked for dead animals or anything blocking draft.Safteys tested, If its been more than one year you need a pro to go over everything, drain only in fall just before you turn on, you dont want fresh oxygenated water sitting in there all summer or more than a few hours without firing it to steam to remove oxygen, oxygen rusts metal.

Janet_3

Thanks for all the replies...

Thanks for all the replies. I appreciate the information and advice. I will read over each item carefully.

Janet V.