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My first TT 399 solo install

steveex
steveex Member Posts: 95
Thank you gents, will have pics next week.

Comments

  • steveex
    steveex Member Posts: 95


    Should i install a wye strainer on secondary header, 1 1/2 piping. Entire system all new, copper pipe and radiant hose.
  • Brad White_201
    Brad White_201 Member Posts: 52
    What are your fears?

    No, not things hiding under the bed, but what are you thinking is there to harm your system?

    When connecting to an old system, particularly one with iron piping and/or radiators, a wye strainer with a 20-mesh screen can catch a lot of things. I put them on the return upstream of the circulator or any motorized valve, whichever is first in line, the strainer goes before it. I even go so far as to install a 5 micron bag filter and some rare earth magnets to catch stray iron.

    Now, if the system is entirely copper and flushed out beforehand, the strainer cannot hurt certainly but I do not think it is as important in a new cleaned system.

    My $0.02

    Brad
  • Steve if you saw what

    I saw at Mestek this past week you would use one on every retrofit. Don Pratt from Reed Institute flushed his own system before installing his new boiler. He had a glass with iron filings on bottom that was about 1/2" deep and that was after four flushings under pressure of an old system.
  • Supply House Rick
    Supply House Rick Member Posts: 1,399
    Stevex, Is that a 20,000 sq/ft building?

    That's a lot of boiler, what size structure are you heating?

    Thanks!
  • steveex
    steveex Member Posts: 95


    9,000 sf with superstor 119. 8 baths 2 kitchens. Snowmelt 2,000 sf that done with seperate unit, raypak outdoor mod boiler. Heat loss for house 300,000 btus did not want to go with the smaller unit, hot water very important to the cust. Single family home. Boiler room very small, will post pics when i finish.
  • steveex
    steveex Member Posts: 95


    Oh i forgot, 2 washer machines.
  • Brad White_200
    Brad White_200 Member Posts: 148
    That sounds exactly like my house...

    only different.

    :)

    We have one laundry.
  • Supply House Rick
    Supply House Rick Member Posts: 1,399
    Dude that's 45 btu per sq/ft !!!!!!!!

    With new construction you could heat a barn with that monster. You are costing your customers precious energy. It's not a high efficient system if it's grossly oversized. I'm guessing 180,000 btu (20 btu per sq/ft)could have sufficiently heated that house. What kind of heat load prgram did you use? Is this house in the Arctic Circle?

    my 2 cents
  • steveex
    steveex Member Posts: 95


    Very large windows, floor to ceiling some rooms. At least 11 showers before 11 am, washing machines run all day long. The smaller unit was the 250 solo. When its 3 degrees outside i need the fast recovery, brooklyn ny.
  • Charlie Taylor
    Charlie Taylor Member Posts: 7
    Bag Filter for Rusty Condensate

    Brad White,

    Saw this post with your comments about adding a 5 micron Bag Filter and magnets for pulling rust out of an old system.Can you advise whose brand, P/Ns ,etc you have used for this.

    I have a stubborn old one pipe system that keeps "dirtying up" the water in my new boiler---even after a few full system piping flushes and about two dozen skim /flush/refill cycles on the boiler.
  • Brad White_203
    Brad White_203 Member Posts: 506
    In the bag, Charles...

    What I use is a Neptune Filter Feeder, used as much for adding chemicals as it is for filtering the water. Model is FTF-2 for the two-gallon size I use. They also make FTF-5 which is (drum roll please...) five gallons.

    Now, for a steam system, that is different. What I use is for a closed water system, connecting an older iron-piped system to a new stainless steel Modulating Condensing boiler. One would not apply that to steam and if you have that much crud, a Spriovent dirt separator or a good wye strainer would be a better choice to my mind, on the inlet of the boiler.

    But really, if you have THAT much crud, something else is amiss and a total evaluation of your water quality is something I would seriously consider.

    Contact George at Rhomar Water and see if he can get you started. The products are not cheap but they work.

This discussion has been closed.