Air Vents, System Cleaning

Tim_64

I was able to get the a Gorton #2 and Gorton #1 installed in the exisiting vent locations. The #2 fits tight to the subfloor, maybe 1" clear.

It was a fun lil project since the end of two of the mains are in a crawlspace with about 2.5 feet from the slab to bottom of joist. I used my mechanics creeper to roll around.

Thanks for the pictures, I now have menorah or candelabra style vents in my system.

Tim_64

Air Vents, System Cleaning

I just installed a Weil-Mclain SGO-4 in my home. Ended up replacing most of the wet return piping because it was 50% clogged with crud.

I'm also checking /cleaning all the air vents. I notice on one of the three main branches the vent was removed at some point and capped. The other two vents are Hoffman #45. I cant find the #45 at any local supply houses, only #43.

Is the #43 an acceptable replacement? Also I cant find the flow rates of either the #45 or #43 in the "Balancing Steam Systems. Does anyone know the flow rates of these?

Second question, how many skimmings is typically needed in a system with new boiler, and pipe system with 50% new piping?

I guess I just skim until the water come out clean, no matter how long it takes?

TIA

Brad White_200

Nothing against

Hoffman vents, but if you cannot find what you can verify for venting capacity, buy some Gorton air valves or another that might be available. No sense guessing at an unknown.

Skimming is an individual thing. If you used an oil-based pipe dope that adds to the issue. The boiler is new so casting oils dominate.

If you could isolate and power flush the new returns with TSP and hot water, (maybe a rat-race pump with hose end to end?), I would do that first. Hate to skim then have it get dirty again. Maybe fire a torch on the pipe to keep it hot, using common sense of course, and don't fill the pipe completely full to allow for expansion.

Clean is one thing but check the waterline for bounce. If it is flat and making dry steam, I think that is clean. I am sure other opinions abound.

Steamhead (in transit)

How long are your steam mains

and what pipe size are they?

To Learn More About This Professional, Click Here to Visit Their Ad in "Find A Professional"

Tim_64

Mains

There are three mains, each is 2-1/2 in dia. I havent measured the lenght oa off each yet, Ill be doing that this weekend and then calculating the venting per the "Balancing Steam Systems" pamphlet.

The system seems to have worked well for the last 80 or so years, so Im pretty sure the main vents are correct, though I found one had been removed and capped at some point in history.

On edit, if I had to guessid say two mains are 20',the third is about 30'

gerry gill

hoffman 45

and the hoffman 43 are the same vents..just different thread connection sizes..matter of fact the 41,43,45 are the same..just different thread connection sizes..they are convector vents and not main vents..they should never have been on the mains as they would do very little if anything..they can't vent fast enough to entice the steam to go thru the main before the runout pipes..which is what you want..

To Learn More About This Professional, Click Here to Visit Their Ad in "Find A Professional"

Tim_64

Vents

The Hoffman #45 sans one were what I found on system when I started to look into the workings.

I've lived in the house for ten years, and the system has always provided heat, All radiators would get hot (eventually)

Now that Ive replaced the museum piece that lived in the cellar... I always associated it with the one in a "Christmas Story" that smokey fiery thing that dad used to fix when the house got cold.

Back to reality. The mains are so tight to the joists and sub-floor that I don't think I could ever fit a Gorton #2.. The tapping on the elbows at the end of each main are 1/2 in..

What does the collective think of installation of some elbows etc, so I could drop the vent lower and allow installation of a #2 and #1? i.e. a mini -me drop header for the vents?

I know at some point the the mini drop will fill full of gunk and clog... I'll likely be pushing up daisy at that time

Brad White_201

Mini-Drop to Vent

Any drop you make to create space for a vent will make a pocket which will fill with water and negate venting, not to mention destroy the vent with a water charge now and again.

I have vented mains tight to joists or practically so, by extending the vent nipple upward and creating a "Menorah" of smaller vents between the joists. A union in the vertical made this possible. I would try that, but no dips.

gerry gill

Brads correct Tim,

you can not form a pocket that holds water..but if the end of the main drops down to a wet return, you can cut in a tee on the vertical drop pipe and place vents there.. the tee should be as close to the elbow as possible and still allows you to install the main vent..pay attention to the ''a''dimension..it sounds like you never really had much venting on the mains..i scanned this picture for you about your old vent..its not really a good venter as its the same as the hoffman 41 which is listed on the chart..i'll try to find a picture of a vent cut into the vertical pipe for you..i know the picture i have in mind, but i have to find it and scan it..

To Learn More About This Professional, Click Here to Visit Their Ad in "Find A Professional"

gerry gill

here's that picture

of cutting in main vents on the drip pipes at the mains ends.

To Learn More About This Professional, Click Here to Visit Their Ad in "Find A Professional"

Steamhead (in transit)

I was going to suggest that

but Gerry got there first, and with a much better picture. Nice job!

To Learn More About This Professional, Click Here to Visit Their Ad in "Find A Professional"