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Drop header

Boston_2
Boston_2 Member Posts: 107
To put some context to what happened, I just had a new Burnham PIN6 gas boiler steam (Single pipe) boiler installed (converted from Oil to Gas) I hired a highly recommended heating contractor to do the install. He botched the job and walked away. He used copper for the near boiler piping and did not follow the manufactures instructions (used only one rises going directly into the main with a T to the equalizer). The system worked, but not well… allot of water was going up into the mains because I have a very low ceilings.
Based on some estimates to repair the job, I decided to do the work myself and install a drop header to dry out the steam.
I think that my new header was pitched enough in the wrong direction that It would collect some water near the first riser (about a quarter bubble on my torpedo level). I ripped it all out and started again. Got it all together last night and started it up. Everything seemed to run ok, both risers got hot (although one heated up before the other) and I had heat to all my radiators in about 15 min. It’s not the prettiest job in the world (I am embarrassed to post any pictures) but it seems to work MUCH better now.

Thanks every for their help!

Comments

  • Boston_2
    Boston_2 Member Posts: 107
    New Drop header

    Last night I pulled out the copper header the hack of a plumber installed on my new boiler and installed a new drop header. After I finished I realized that the header is on a slight pitch away from the Hartford loop, is this going to cause a problem with water collecting in the piping? Should It be completely level or slightly pitched toward the Hartford loop? I wasn’t sure if a little water in the header would cause water hammer or a problem later on. Just trying to avoid taking it all apart again!
  • You need to re-pitch it

    so the water flows to the equalizer and down to the Hartford Loop. Otherwise the water can carry over into the steam mains and cause banging.

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  • bob young
    bob young Member Posts: 2,177
    the dark side of steam

    Before you rip it out , try it . could work, stranger things have happened with steam. sometimes it just takes on a life of its own !! it may feel sorry for you and do you a solid !! i have seen stuff work that never should.
  • Bruce M_2
    Bruce M_2 Member Posts: 123
    What Type System Do You have

    Do you have a one pipe or two pipe system? Is it an older system?
  • Stewy_2
    Stewy_2 Member Posts: 83
    15 min what Am I doing wrong

    they were all the way hot or just heat to the first column of each rad? How many floor in you place?
  • Boston_2
    Boston_2 Member Posts: 107


    After 15 min, I just started to feel the heat on the first or second column on the radiator. After 30 min they were all hot, all the way across.
    I did notice that the pressure gauge was reading 5lbs, but I didn’t think that could be correct since the presuretrol (set at 1 lb – main, .5 Dif) didn’t shut down the boiler. When I shut the boiler down, the gauge didn’t move for 5 min. Then it finally started to go down.

    One of radiators I did notice that it was hot all the way across the top and cold half way down… Any thoughts on how that could happen?
  • Bruce_26
    Bruce_26 Member Posts: 27
    Send Letter

    I would send a letter to the installer informing him of the fact that he did not follow the manufacturers installation instructions and you want to be reimbursed to correct his improper installation. I would also send a copy to Burnham and the Better Business Bureau. In the future, when you sign a contract, make sure there is a clause stating that the equipment is to be installed in accordance with the manufacturers installation instructions.
  • Long Beach Ed
    Long Beach Ed Member Posts: 1,321
    Basics...

    I hope I'm not saying the obvious, but before you further beat yourself up over your repiping, replace the radiator vents and the main vents.

    If you're building any pressure at the boiler and it's not circulating to the radiators FAST, you've probably got vents that have earned their retirement.
  • Boston_2
    Boston_2 Member Posts: 107
    New Drop header

    Attached are some pics of the new drop header I built. It looked much easier then in was. It's not pretty but it works. The only problem is the bullhead T on the main.

    Couple of items:

    1) All the radiators are getting hot, but it takes about 35-45 min for a full cycle. Startup though thermostat shutting off. In Dan’s book he mentioned 20 min being the optimal time frame
    2) I have cold skimmed the boiler twice and the water line is still bouncing.
    3) My pressure gauge is reading 5psi, but when I open the relief valve, it appears it’s under very little pressure.
  • bob young
    bob young Member Posts: 2,177
    ugly it is

    You are correct sir. piping is extra ugly. looks like an emergency job in rural alaska using fittings in truck. but on the plus side , i guess it will work. even ugly girls serve a purpose....sometimes
  • Steamhead (in transit)
    Steamhead (in transit) Member Posts: 6,688
    I think you mentioned

    that this was the first time you'd done this. On that basis, you did very well. It's much better than what was there, and there's plenty of room to add a second steam main connection when you're ready to get rid of the bullheaded tee.

    Keep skimming the boiler- do it hot, so the oil is less viscous and can run out more easily. And replace the gauge.

    "Steamhead"

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  • Phil_17
    Phil_17 Member Posts: 178
    Not as ugly as some...

    Come on Bob, isn't that a little harsh?

    The basics of the drop header look great to me. Yes there is a bit of extra dope around, and all the lines aren't as straight/plumb/perpendicular as they might be, but I don't think I'd call it ugly.

    If you remember the previous state of affairs, it's hard to understand why this shouldn't be a significant improvement.

    How is your pressuretrol set? It looks like the high setting is very high. If things are working well, you shouldn't need more than a pound or so.

    -Phil
  • Boston_2
    Boston_2 Member Posts: 107


    Thanks for all your feedback I appreciate the honesty (very honest). I have never soldered or plumbed anything…ever, so the fact that it worked and didn’t leak was my main goal. The pipe dope got a little out of hand, but there isn’t a single leak. I see a big difference from before.. so I think it was worth it.
    The pressuretrol is set as low as it will go so I don’t think the gauge is reading correctly. I would assume that if it was at 5 lbs the system would shut down.

    Steamhead,

    Novice question, if I skim the boiler when it’s hot, don’t I run the risk of cracking the boiler when I add more cold water??
  • Steamhead (in transit)
    Steamhead (in transit) Member Posts: 6,688
    If you

    run the water in verrrry slowly you should be OK. Follow the instructions that came with the boiler. Also make sure the water feed line is teed into the return line rather then the boiler itself, that will help temper the water before it goes into the boiler.

    "Steamhead"

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  • TimS
    TimS Member Posts: 82


    When my gauge does this, the piping to it is clogged, and it's reading the pressure inside the (now sealed) piping on its side of the clog.

    jim
  • klaus
    klaus Member Posts: 183
    Pigtail

    Your pig tail is "sideways". Instead of running to the side of your pressuretrol it should run front to back. The way it is now as your boiler heats it will move out of level (the pig tail will tend to "unwind" as it heats and expands). This will throw off your pressure settings.

    For a first time install I think you did a very nice job, all things considered. :)
  • Steamhead (in transit)
    Steamhead (in transit) Member Posts: 6,688
    Doesn't matter on that one

    since the Pressuretrol is the new type that does not have a mercury switch. You can tilt it all you want and it won't change the settings.

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  • GW
    GW Member Posts: 4,832
    drop

    I'm just a regular steam guy, but is there any advantage to 'dropping' the header on this job? I thought dropping was just a space saving issue. Did you drop this just because you could? Looks like there's plenty of vertical to do it the normal way. Thanks, gw

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    Gary Wilson
    Wilson Services, Inc
    Northampton, MA
    gary@wilsonph.com
  • bob young
    bob young Member Posts: 2,177
    a better job

    Better quality steam......drier a couple extra fittigs are worth their weight in gold. enjoyable too if you like working with pipe as i still do. try it, you'll like it.
  • Boston_2
    Boston_2 Member Posts: 107
    Orginal

    The orginal work was a hackjob, so since i needed to rip it out, i figured why not do it the right way. In the Burnham manual it even gives the drop header as an alternative. i priced out the parts, and it was going to cost me an addtian 25.00 in parts to do the drop header, so why not get the best steam possible. I have noticed a big difference in the quality of the steam and heating (although i still have a few issues i am trying to work out) we are moving in the right direction.
  • Kevin O. Pulver_2
    Kevin O. Pulver_2 Member Posts: 87
    Whaddy mean \"Alaska\" Bob?

    Haven't you been watching the news? I don't know about the piping, but the only one from Alaska that I have seen on the T.V. lately is absolutely beautiful!
    Kevin
  • The Boiler Dr.
    The Boiler Dr. Member Posts: 163
    STEAMHEAD ... Hieght and Length of risers

    What is the optimum rise beyond the manufacturer's dimension from the water line AND the optimum drop into a drop header.
    Is there a situation where you can have too long of a drop or lateral over to the drop section which could create more problems than you were initially trying to prevent?

    Inquiring minds ?????
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