Radiant floor design opinions wanted

Tom Kane

Remember that raupanel has a 5/8 airgap underneath, this will provide some insulation value, we have used it in lofts where a post and beam ceiling is underneath and its not possible to insulate due to a lack of a joist system, this was in the north country and on a lake, design temps get very low up there and this system worked very well

Wayco Wayne_2

I am designing a system

that is radiant floor underfloor throughout the upper 2 floors. The Master Suite extends out over an unconditioned porch. I get nervous and twitchy at this set up because 10 years ago we had an ice storm that knocked the power out for 3 days. Pipes were bursting everywhere. I'm thinking the tubing out over the porch would be vulnerable in such a condition. I'm thinking of going on top of the floor with something like a quik trak, in that room just because it would be inside the building envelope and hopefully less exposed. Am I being too careful? What do you guys do in such cases? WW

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Supply House Rick

Raupanel

Look at this, you saw our manifolds on Mark's Wilo Brain Box

Questions? email me...

Rick

klaus

Insulation

As you already know whether you go on top or on bottom you're going to need to insulate below the conditioned space Wayne. Can you really gain much insulating value staying above the sub floor? Depending on the thickness of the wood, it has to be minimal. That's the only real difference I see. Either way you're keeping the tubing in the conditioned space.

If it were me I think I would discuss it with the H.O. upfront for their input. Explain your concerns. Then if they're concerned with the possibility of freezing after an extended power outage you could do a heat exchanger with glycol for that area only. It would cost more but your customer would understand why, and if they didn't want to do it and had problems, it was thier decision.

Good Luck, Rich L

John Barba_6

Wayne...

Learned that trick from my cousin -- a P&H contractor in MA -- about 3 years ago. It never occurred to me (that's what happens when you sit at a desk for too long!). He went on top of the subfloor in his master bath and master bed - both over the garage. The garage was heated, too, but he wanted to be sure. Seemed like a smart idea.

From a cost standpoint, present it to the customer both ways, tell them the differences and what you recommend, and then let them choose.

Rock on!

JMB

Darin Cook_8

Wayne

I ran into this exact situation a few years back. In my case it was not that the bathroom wouldn't heat and satisfy the thermostat but the area that was out past the main structure was noticeably cooler (comfort issue). I recommend doing this, use the rau panel on the area that sticks out past the main structure of the home. Heavily insulate the area beneath it and make sure there is a very good air barrier. A common mistake made in calculations is that people forget the area underneath the tub/shower, cabinets, and toilet DO NOT COUNT as heating area. So you find yourself without enough floor space to adequately heat the room. You may even need to go supplemental or tubing in the walls.

I am glad that you are addressing this now instead of when the "call" comes in.

Wayne, Give me a shout if I can be of any assistance.

Darin

Joe Billow_6

I would go with Roth Panel.

Supply House Rick

Joe what is the basis for that statement?

Experience with both or personal preference? Generally you can use lower water temperatures with Raupanel...

Rick

troy_8

Rau-panel

I agree with the Rau-panel. It gives the best output. Also it sounds like glycol is a must. I would also foam insulate under the exterior areas at least. You can now buy the foam in 30gal. cans that look like propane bottles. They come with the wand and hose and you just toss when you are done. Air infiltration is your enemy here. We did a similar job and used extruded plates under all other areas and Rau-panel in the master suite that mostly hung over a porch. It worked well. The Rau-panel also was on it's own zone.