Welcome! Here are the website rules, as well as some tips for using this forum.
Need to contact us? Visit https://heatinghelp.com/contact-us/.
Click here to Find a Contractor in your area.
HELP! rural well system (OT)
Leo G_101
Member Posts: 87
submersible. This is how silly I can be, never even thought about finding out who did or does wells in our area. You are right, have to have a regestered well guy to even install the wells now (same as chimney cleaning for insurance), so I will look into this when I get up there next week.
I am finally on a 2 week break, so maybe some of my critical thinking ability will return with the rest! LOL!
Golly, you just gotta love the Wall!
More then just heating!
Thank-you very much everyone, you made the start to my holidays a good one!
Leo G
I am finally on a 2 week break, so maybe some of my critical thinking ability will return with the rest! LOL!
Golly, you just gotta love the Wall!
More then just heating!
Thank-you very much everyone, you made the start to my holidays a good one!
Leo G
0
Comments
-
Having purchased property
in a rural area last year, and not having renters this winter, I am hoping one you guys can help me.
We have a 400 hundred foot well for our water, and the winter temps drop to -30*F. This is an old (30 years) trailer with an addition, with no heat under. I want to winterize the water system but am not sure how to go about it. I will be going there next week for about ten days, so will be able to really have a good look at what's what, but can't remember seeing any kind of drain valve on the main.
What I am worried about, is if I turn the pump off to cut in a drain valve, could I loose my head on the system? 400 feet seems like a heck of a challenge to re-prime.
Any thoughts?
Thanx!
Leo G0 -
What type of pump?
Submersible or jet?
To Learn More About This Professional, Click Here to Visit Their Ad in "Find A Professional"0 -
Most likely your well is 400 feet deep, that does not mean that you pump is set that deep!
Do you not have a pump guy that can winterize this for you?
If you do not have the proper tools and training this could turn into a disaster.
Also in some states you must be licensed to work on wells.
Just think about the possible contamination you can cause by trying to winterize it yourself!!
Sorry ,i used to work on wells in NJ ,but that is about the only advise i can give you .Heatmeister.0 -
Leo
The pitless adapter and the feed pipe from the well to the house are usually installed below frost level.
But being you said you have a trailer perhaps the pipe coming up out of the ground is exposed going into trailer?
If so, I would turn off power to pump, and pull pump piping up a little to uncouple the pitless adapter, water from the feed side of the (before check valve) should drain back.
Not to worry about re priming the pump, there is another check valve at the pump in the well, so the vertical portion of the pipe should still be filled.
To pull , take some 1" pipe 4 or 5' long and a tee plus two 1" nipples to make a handle , screw that into the top of the pitless, and puullll. Make take two people , 400' is a lot of weight, plus a pump hanging down.
A shallow well, (less than 100') usually uses a jet pump in the house, differnent procedure for priming, much like a utility or transfer pump.
Although being you said you had renter's last year, and nothing froze, I would not worry about it. Inside the trailer, I would drain all plumbing lines and add RV antifreeze to the traps , toilets to winterize.
Have fun!
To Learn More About This Professional, Click Here to Visit Their Ad in "Find A Professional"0 -
it always depends
biggest is: is it a submersible or jet pump. Submersible not a problem to prime. Jets can be a real pain. Ruthe0 -
Supermann eeh?
From working in the well service for years i would not recommend trying to lift a pump that deep by hand, that be some serious weight there!!! someone could get hurt!0 -
Leo
If you plan on doing this every year, you might want to think about digging up the line where it comes out of the well casing and installing a curb stop on the line. It has a drain back feature when you close it with the wrench. Then put a drain on the incoming line where it comes into the house before the pressure tank. Then you would shut off pump, close curb stop, open drain in house, Done.0 -
Thanx
have thought about the same thing. the line from the well is 6-7 feet below. I am going to the property next week, so will see if I can meet the local well guy.
Thanx again,
Leo G0
This discussion has been closed.
Categories
- All Categories
- 86.2K THE MAIN WALL
- 3.1K A-C, Heat Pumps & Refrigeration
- 52 Biomass
- 422 Carbon Monoxide Awareness
- 90 Chimneys & Flues
- 2K Domestic Hot Water
- 5.4K Gas Heating
- 99 Geothermal
- 156 Indoor-Air Quality
- 3.4K Oil Heating
- 63 Pipe Deterioration
- 913 Plumbing
- 6K Radiant Heating
- 380 Solar
- 14.8K Strictly Steam
- 3.3K Thermostats and Controls
- 53 Water Quality
- 41 Industry Classes
- 47 Job Opportunities
- 17 Recall Announcements