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Building my own copper coils in storage tank

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  • Robert_26
    Robert_26 Member Posts: 1
    Building my own copper coils in storage tank

    I am building my own 500 gal storage tank for my wood boiler, and I am trying to find out @ 180f water going through 1" copper the amount of feet I would have to have to transfer heat to the load. The load on my house is 60,000 btus all radiant system. Can anyone help me here. Also I want to build a domestic coil, is there a formula for sizing the amount of copper I need to transfer to my domestic system. Please any suggestions would be helpful
  • Jack
    Jack Member Posts: 1,048
    For a tank that size

    I'd throw a 50'coil of 3/4" soft copper into the top of the tank for DHW. If that is inadequate you can put two in parrallel.
  • hot_rod
    hot_rod Member Posts: 23,173
    more surface area= more exchange

    this company builds thermal storage tanks and shares some coil info at their site. www.stsscoinc.com

    Consider an external flat plate HX also. They provide much better heat transfer with two pumped flows, easier to repair and maintain. And possibly a lower cost. Plenty of inexpensive plate HX available online and at e-bay.

    hr
    Bob "hot rod" Rohr
    trainer for Caleffi NA
    Living the hydronic dream
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  • Custom Copper Coils

    I made these heat exchangers with 5 coils of 1/2" X 60' soft roll copper. I piped them into a 1" header reverse return. This large surface area allows me to collect the maximum solar energy when it is available, even at lower temperatures. Like they say, you have to make hay when the sun is shining.

    Thanks, Bob Gagnon




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  • Dobber
    Dobber Member Posts: 91
    Tank Liner

    Bob
    What did you use as a liner for your tank.I'm looking at turning a cistern in my basement into a solar storage tank.

    Thanks
    Dobber

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  • Tank Liner

    I used heavy duty roll rubber roofing. I bought a 20' wide roll so there would be no seams. I hear that the liners can last 20 plus years.

    Thanks, Bob Gagnon

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  • hot_rod
    hot_rod Member Posts: 23,173
    Watch the operating temperature on EPDM roofing

    materials. Generally it is 160F max. I'm not sure what happens with extended operating above that?

    I have seen some old Chiles Power Systems around this area with 20 years on plywood tanks with EPDM roofing as liner.

    It's tough to get a large open tank to 180, top to bottom, and keep it there. Maybe with a close approch HX design you could get 180 with a 190F supply? And with stratification the lower portion is cooler then the top 180F. Depending on where you read the temperature.

    hr
    Bob "hot rod" Rohr
    trainer for Caleffi NA
    Living the hydronic dream
  • Bernando
    Bernando Member Posts: 1


    We would use (2) coils @ 120' x 3/4" tubing for heat and (1) for domestic on 650g tank for 100,000 btu boiler. EPDM liners shouldn't go above 170 regularly or else they might cook. Remember that the insulation should also be capable of withstanding high temps too. With aquastat you can turn on tank overheat zone if tank is getting to hot, but in time you can make fires wisely so as not to waste btu's
  • Weezbo
    Weezbo Member Posts: 6,232
    work intensive + time consuming

    Might want to consider HR's thought on the plate exchanger,

    Tacos X=bloc is my choice and i am thinking a 4 way mixer ahead of it tight to the near boiler piping ...with a paralleled branch to a separate "hydronic fan coil ahead of the X block set to water temps exceeding secondary high temp cut out..

    a friend of mine has a boxed in and insulated water truck tanker with two 3/4 coils of 80 K that i think should have been connected off of one inch reverse return when they first installed it

    theres no strainer on the system on either side to me thatsa no no too.

    The HRs into Caleffi products , you ought to see if he can post you a picture of a dirt separator way more bang for the Buck ..my 2 cents

    *~//: )
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  • Tank Coil, Tank, and Rubber Roofing

    I built that coil and tank a few years ago when copper cost a lot less. I figured all that surface area would help me collect more solar energy. I think next time I would go with a submersible tankless coil like I put in my grey water tank, and not have the extra pump. I think a fiberglass tank with that coil would be easier to make air tight, to prevent evaporation. Hot Rod, don't you think the rubber roofing gets hotter than that on a roof? With my large capacity tank they really don't get hotter than 165 degrees, but I think the fiberglass tank looks more professional, if it would hold up. Weezbo, so you think we meed a strainer on a closed loop pressurized system?

    Thanks, Bob Gagnon


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