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Hooking up a coalboiler with my oilboiler?
Bob Harper
Member Posts: 1,091
"Everything I have heard is that A Masoney chimney is better then stainless steel liner, I have my old masoney chimmney lined with stainless."
Based on what? Terra cotta tile is an unlisted site assembled material. The reason the codes require cleanouts at the base of chimneys is for planned failure. They know the tile will flake and spall. They know the acidic condensation will convert the mortar joints into sand and salt. Tile is a high mass material that takes a long time to heat up for a stable draft. The rectilinear shape leaves cold corners that do not add to effective flue area and actually add drag. They are rarely stacked perfectly plumb, their joints rarely struck smooth rarely with the medium duty non-water soluble calcium aluminate refractory cement mixture prescribed in NFPA 211. Tile cannot take thermal shock or hoop stress so they crack on their own. They are chipped and damaged just in handling. There is no temperature test in ASTM C-315 for flue tile because they know they cannot take it. Tile does not come with a warranty of any kind. I've never met a mason who knew the codes much less held a certification that covered them. I've never met a chimney pro that found a single code compliant chimney in America. I heard of two who built them from the ground up per NFPA 211 but they are also sweeps who were educated on chimney construction and codes.
Want me to go on? So, what are the drawbacks to stainless according to your sources and what are their qualifications? Very interested in your response. FYI, it is spelled "masonry".TIA,
Bob
Based on what? Terra cotta tile is an unlisted site assembled material. The reason the codes require cleanouts at the base of chimneys is for planned failure. They know the tile will flake and spall. They know the acidic condensation will convert the mortar joints into sand and salt. Tile is a high mass material that takes a long time to heat up for a stable draft. The rectilinear shape leaves cold corners that do not add to effective flue area and actually add drag. They are rarely stacked perfectly plumb, their joints rarely struck smooth rarely with the medium duty non-water soluble calcium aluminate refractory cement mixture prescribed in NFPA 211. Tile cannot take thermal shock or hoop stress so they crack on their own. They are chipped and damaged just in handling. There is no temperature test in ASTM C-315 for flue tile because they know they cannot take it. Tile does not come with a warranty of any kind. I've never met a mason who knew the codes much less held a certification that covered them. I've never met a chimney pro that found a single code compliant chimney in America. I heard of two who built them from the ground up per NFPA 211 but they are also sweeps who were educated on chimney construction and codes.
Want me to go on? So, what are the drawbacks to stainless according to your sources and what are their qualifications? Very interested in your response. FYI, it is spelled "masonry".TIA,
Bob
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Comments
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1. I was wonder If any one know where there is a diagram to show my plumber the diffrent options on hooking the coal boiler to my current oil boiler. I want to have it hooked up the most efficent way, I have a indirect hot water tank also.
2. Is there a way to make my thermostates control the coal boiler,I have 3 heat zones and a hot water zone.
3. I would like to not have my oil boiler come on at all but be able to come on by it self if need be.
I read this somewhere what does it mean?
It can be plumbed in series, parrallel or in a loop from the coal boiler to the oil with a seperate pump triggered from the Keystokers aquastat. The thermostat need not be connected to the coal boiler with option three, the two prior will need a temp switch or additional thermostat for the changeover if you want it automatic. Set up right, the oil will never fire unless the coal boiler fails to provide heat.
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Anyone?0 -
best to find
a heating specialist.
if the plumber needs help with a diagram then when the system doesn't work who is going to troubleshoot it and fix it????????????0 -
a simple conceptual drawing
shows two boilers in parallel. possibly a two stage thermostat, first runs the coal, second stage drops out the coal and fires the oil. Maybe add checks on the supply and return to prevent ghost flow when not running.
A contractor with hydronic experience should be able to pipe this properly. same with control wiring.
hrBob "hot rod" Rohr
trainer for Caleffi NA
Living the hydronic dream0 -
I was wondering also if I add a 2nd circulator how do I know what size HP/GPM to get, I have a taco 1/16 th HP on my system know should I get a adjustable one and use that to feed the house and put my current taco between the 2 boilers?
I had a 1/2 or 3/4 HP B&G circulator on my old boiler.
Any other inputs would be apperciated0 -
well the circs
need to be sized to the job you are asking them to do. They need to move a certain amount of flow (gpms) and overcome the systems resistance (head)
The best first step would be a load calculation for the building, then the boilers, piping, radiators and pumps all get sized accordingly.
It's hard to jump in the middle, like this, without all the data and suggest the correct sizing for any of you system.
Did you try the find a contractor button here. Or contact a local heating supply company and ask them for some referals. Somebody in your area should be able help you design and size this correctly.
hrBob "hot rod" Rohr
trainer for Caleffi NA
Living the hydronic dream0 -
Two Chimneys
Do you have a separate flue for the coal boiler?
Thanks, Bob Gagnon
To Learn More About This Professional, Click Here to Visit Their Ad in "Find A Professional"To learn more about this professional, click here to visit their ad in Find A Contractor.0 -
I am haveing a new 8 inch flue masoney chimmney put up this months, the stove calls for a 8 inch flue, but the inside diameater of the clay flue pipe is closer to six but it is called a 8 inch flue pipe does that sound right?0 -
get a chimney pro
NFPA 211 ch.9.8.2 states "unless listed for such connection, solid fuel-burning appliances shall not be connected to ta chimney flue serving another appliance".
You must have separate flues unless both appliances were listed together.
An 8" appliance collar has a cross-sectional area of 50.26 square inches. The effective flue area of a nominal 8x8 flue tile is a 6.5" round, which equates to 33.18 square inches, which is a 33% reduction in size but a huge reduction in flow capacity. I suggest you contact a chimney professional to guide you in sizing the flue and in choices. Why are you using 100 yr. old technology when far better tested and listed insulated warrantied chimneys are available? For instance, if you don't want to use UL103HT factory chimney, you can construct a masonry chimney and drop a listed stainless liner down it properly sized for the appliance.
HTH,
Bob0 -
Everything I have heard is that A Masoney chimney is better then stainless steel liner, I have my old masoney chimmney lined with stainless.0 -
Just what I have heard, that stainless rots out and block will last for ever, this is just rom reading on the net.0 -
durability?
If block lasts forever, then why do we have to reline it all the time?
Many stainless liners now carry a transferrable lifetime warranty for wood, oil and gas. However, coal may limit the warranty with some brands but there are those 316TI that still carry lifetime warranties even with coal.
What's the warranty on masonry?0 -
I am not disagreeing with you, I have no idea which is right, When a appilance calls for a 8 inch flue do they mean 8 inch od or id? becasue the 8in flue pipes are od. thanks0 -
So what about tieing it into my boiler any tip and ideas?0 -
ANY one tips on hooking it up?0
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