Only 12 years old

Mad Dog_2

"Why installation IS everything!" Mad Dog

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Tony_23

Results of non-barrier tubing

Four EX-30's, 5 circs, relief valves and a non-functioning radiant floor. Not to mention the loss of efficiency and fuel costs..... We couldn't even drain this Smith GB w/o cutting the horizontal return inlet. Nine loops of orange non-barrier tubing that hasn't worked right from the start and started plugging up 2 years into the last 12. Semi-solid goop that took 80-100 psi to move. Rhomar 9100 will do the rest. TT Solo 110 with a bronze circ and all new manifold piping and controls will drive it now.

Steve Ebels_3

That's UGLY!

Another example of radiant done wrong. They probably saved all of a couple hundred bucks by using the non barrier tube and look what it's cost them now.

I would bet that there was no return water temp protection for the Smith either. Right?

Rich Kontny_3

Kind of....

shoots holes in that anbody can do radiant heat theory. Sure hope the DIYs and homeowners get a look at these pictures.

Thanks for sharing the pay me now,pay me a great deal more later pictures.

Rich

Tony_23

Nope

Just an improperly piped "mixing" valve. Supply in one end, return from boiler in the other, "mixed" out the middle. Didn't work worth a s#*t

Tony_23

It gets better : )

Bioflex hose. Forget O2 barrier, "all-purpose" screws would've negated that if there was one. (Bioflex is non-barrier hose)

Oh, and an unlined brick-only chimney

Tony_23

Not a DIY

A short-lived "professional" did this mess. Also used 1/2" celotex under the tubing until it got down to 30F. The HO added another layer themselves when he wouldn't come back.

It's definitely a head-shaker.....

Rocky_3

TT tank as radiant isolation tank

I have done three jobs this summer where the old Quest (PB) non-barrier tubing was directly connected to boiler system, and with no tempering valve, so straight boiler water was going to slab. Used the TT 30 to isolate the radiant side with all bronze/brass/copper system components. Instead of upsizing the TT tank, though, as would be necessary to get the tappings large enough for proper flow and BTU output (such as the TT 110), we started using the TT 30 and basically injecting out of it into the radiant header. Keep the tank at about 160 and just do P/S off of it. In essence, the TT 30 becomes the boiler. We use a little Taco 006 bronze as the injection pump. This way, the 3/4" hot and cold potable taps coming off the TT 30 are plenty big enough for injection. Saves a gob of money on the tank, and since we are using mixing controls anyway, there is no additional cost for further controls. In addition, we don't see the extra large temp drop at the boiler, so often boiler protection becomes moot. You might give it a try. We have found it works great and at great savings to our customers.
Regards,
Rocky

Oops, I just reread your post. The TT Solo must be a direct fired unit. I was talking about using the TT indirect water heater in conjunction with the boiler. Sorry for the misunderstanding.