homemade Quicktrac

[Deleted User]

ok

then why not have several people, as a group, contact khanna and offer their knowledge of reality vs his 'lab'/ paper knowledge. it may be a big plus for the whole field. i'd offer, but i don't know a 1/4 of what you guys know

[Deleted User]

i made my own aluminum

'quick traks' by securing two, 4' pieces of 1/2" L copper to a piece of 3/4" ply to be my 'convex' form. then i made my 'concave' form by securing four, 3/4"x3/4"x4' angle iron pieces to another 3/4" piece of ply. then, i bought some soft, roll aluminum at the width that i needed to fit between 16"oc joists, cut it to 4' long pieces, and 'stamped' them out with a 12# sledge hammer. i used the sledge like a tamper vs a hammer. once the form was made, and the aluminum was cut, i tamped out 240 of them within a few spare-time evenings

Unknown

thanks HR... do you know the product, or class of product the tile installer used?

RMAC

DELTA T

I HAVE BEEN READING THIS THREAD. I FIND IT AMAZING THAT NO ONE HAS BROUGHT UP THE FACT THAT A 35 SQ FOOT ZONE WILL HAVE SHORT CYCLING ISSUES IF USING A WALLY HEATING UNIT. YOU NEED TO MAKE SURE THAT YOU GET A 20 DEGREE DROP IN THAT AREA OR YOU WILL BE SHORT CYCLING THE HEATING UNIT. THIS ZONE WILL MAYBE HAVE 700 TO 1000 BTU LOAD.

Fred Rappuhn

I can remember the excact # from whem when I ran the slant Fin software on the heatloss, but you are very close to it.
From the looks of it I will abandon the panel rad and let the floor carry the load or I feel short cycling is what I will have.
I plan on just setting the tube now and hire someone to tie in to the boiler.
This bathroom will also be on the same zone of the ajoining bathroom of the master bedroom, that in the plans, not at this time yet.