boiler retention dome

Steamhead (in transit)

it's also possible to baffle the flue passages over the firebox where you hang the baffle. But this must be done by a pro with proper test equipment to insure proper combustion.

I still say replace the boiler, but if you absolutely can't do that now, proper baffles will help you save up for a new one.

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Mark Z_2

boiler retention dome

My one pipe steam system still uses the original boiler installed in '38. Aside from an upgrade to a bigger fire box due to an increase in house EDR requirements nothing has changed on the system and she works great. My boiler man noticed that someone, for whatever reason, removed a cast iron dome that hung down from the bioier pipes by a chain over the fire box which was there to increase the residence time of the heat in the bioler before going out the flue and up the chimney. Can someone tell me what this dome is actually called and where I could get a replacement? My boiler guy told me he has used a mushroom anchor hung upside down or even the lid to a cast iron pot would work. Anyone got one laying around they'd be will to part with? Any ideas or suggestions would help as well. Further, this web sight is 'da bomb'.

thanks, mark

Steamhead (in transit)

That was called a \"hanging baffle\"

which worked as you say. Those old coal boilers had large passages which had to be baffled for decent efficiency on oil or gas. It was also common practice to baffle the flueways above the firebox.

But if the boiler is that old, why not consider a new MegaSteam? This should make a pretty deep dent in your oil consumption.

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Robert O'Brien

1938?

Guess who Time Magazine's Man of the Year was for 1938?

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Bruce Stevens_2

Hitler

Mark Z_2

boiler retention dome

Steamhead, as expected you always have the answers. Had considered a new boiler, but based on current economics, ie. house is under construction and really couldn't drop another $5k into the project. However to note here are the specifics; Old boiler '38 w/ a new firebox able to handle a 1.25 burner tip. Boiler cycles on for 30-40 min max until rad closest to T-stat builds up enough temp to trip T-stat, but pressuretrol never cuts out and all rads are hot. P-trol set at .5psig cut-in w/ 1.5 psig differential. Even on coldest days boiler doesn't restart for ~4hrs. Outside of boiler never gets warm except for flue pipe. Can't quite measure eff yet, but damn this thing is working right. After new firebox, new burner tip, new and corrected air vents on mains and Rads, the improved system burners as much fuel at present EDR qty, 420 sqft EDR, as EDR prior to house remodel, ~220 sqft EDR. Something good seems to be happening here. Any thoughts, suggestions always welcome and what would be the best method to measure eff. Lastly, anyone have one of these 'hanging baffles' around or is my wife getting a new 'used' cast iron pot so I can keep the lid for a 'better' prupose. Appreciate all the words of wisdom that comes from people on this site,

thanks, mark

Steamhead (in transit)

You might try

Sid Harvey's, I know they used to sell these things.

What make and model is the boiler? Is it round or square? What burner are you using in it?

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markZ

boiler retention dome

Steamhead, boiler is a Kohler mod.# AA18x15 w/ 3 sections and she's square. Tried to look her up in the literature on this site, but that mod # wasn't listed. Originally coal fired, she now uses a Beckett head w/ a 1.25 tip. I'll give Sid Harvey's a call and see if they have 'hanging baffles' in stock or my wife is surely getting a used cast iron pot as a gift while my burner gets the lid. Have a great Easter and thanks for the help.

mark

ed wallace

retention dome

why are you trying to keep that beast alive are you driving a car from 1937? its an antique and an energy hog

Mark Z_2

boiler retention dome

Steamhead, originally there were some bricks layed in the flue-way over the flue=box as you describe probably acting as a baffle. I removed them, but they did not appear in anyway look like they were layed down w/ any real geometry. However, they probably did perform some form of heat retention on the boiler. Once I get a hanging baffle, any idea how high she should be hung within the boiler. Lastly, pretty sure you're correct about upgrading to a new boiler, but current on-hand $$s won't allow it. How would I measure efficiency on 'Ol betsy anyway. Would love to try to get a handle on that.

As always thanks, mark

[Deleted User]

Measuring the efficiency of Ol' Betsy...

is done in how many dinosaurs have to be burnt to keep her going. Honestly, the only handle you need to get on ol' Betsy is a SLEDGE hammer handle :-)

Seriously. If it's what I think it is, it won't fit out the widest door of the house. Without "adjustment" with a hammer.

Been there, done that, saw a 50% reduction in energy consumption. Especialy where someone has messed with the dead mens flue bricks settings...

Seriously. Dinosaurs per day...

EDIT: A word of caution on placing anything in the combustion path process. You and your loved ones could die from improper action. Worst case, the whole family ends up with serious brain damage. For life, what's left of it.

I would not recommend that you place anything in your boiler. Anything.

People die from doing this. I for one am tired of seeingit, and I know a lot of other people here that are as well. This is nothing to be messed with. I know I wouldn't do it. Warranty or none. You touch it last, you OWN it. Lock stock barrel and bodies, if you happen to be so unfortunate.

Don't mess with it.

Sorry for the blunt tone.

ME

Steamhead (in transit)

Which is why

I said "this must be done by a pro with proper test equipment to insure proper combustion". Definitely not a DIY thing. But it was common in the old days and made the boiler more efficient than it would have been otherwise- if done right by the right pro.

The right pro makes all the difference. But I agree with you, ME, in that the best course of action is to replace the boiler.

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