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Steam boiler water level

Kyle_5
Kyle_5 Member Posts: 6
Williamson boiler? Is this a Weil-McLain under another name or just another company, like WM, that the same third party factory produces boilers for? They are virtually identical.

Comments

  • scott k_3
    scott k_3 Member Posts: 22
    Steam boiler water level

    I have a residential single pipe steam system which has been shut off by the LWCO. What is the relationship between the LWCO level and the level of the water in the sight glass. I only added enough water to get the burner going again, the water level is about 2/3 of the way up the sight glass. This previously happened (LWCO) about 2 weeks ago and I added only a very small (1 gal or so?) amount of water and it took 2 weeks for it to get "used up". I don't want to flood the boiler, but keeping it good and full would be nice to prevent cold moringings

    Thanks for the help.
  • Steamhead (in transit)
    Steamhead (in transit) Member Posts: 6,688
    Usually

    the lowest permissible water level is 1/4" above the lower nut that holds the sight glass. However, this could vary among different manufacturers. Check the instructions that came with the boiler to be sure.

    If you have to fill it that high to keep it running, the low-water cutoff may be bad, or not installed properly. Since the LWCO is a safety device, better have a pro look at it.

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  • scott k_3
    scott k_3 Member Posts: 22
    Thanks

    Generally the water level in the sight glass was about the middle and only slightly below that when the LWCO came into play. I had seen the placard about 1/4" is the lowest water level allowed. It just seems like the LWCO is set about 2 inches above that (out of the 6-8" of the sight glass.) This is a new house (to us) and the system was cleaned/serviced last fall before we bought it. As an anal retentive engineer I have been "monitoring" the system since we bought and with the help of Dan's book "We have steam" (and the wall) been able to quite down a fairly noisy system to just a few "groans"--and I'll get those before the end of the heating season.
    I was just curious about the LWCO--is there a setting to adjust it? this is the first time all season it's needed water so I don't suspect anything serious. or should I?
  • Steamhead (in transit)
    Steamhead (in transit) Member Posts: 6,688
    No way to adjust

    a LWCO, for obvious reasons ;-)

    Can you post a pic of the boiler?

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  • scott k_3
    scott k_3 Member Posts: 22


    I guess I shouldn't have said "adjust" the LWCO. I guess I was thinking of when the sensor was installed the level of the "probe" could be set wherever and that would determine the LWCO level. I'll post pics later today but the burner is a Carlin (sp) out of Western MA (Longmeadow?) if memory serves me correctly.
  • Steamhead (in transit)
    Steamhead (in transit) Member Posts: 6,688
    Yes,

    the probe level is fixed. I'll wait to see your pics. Carlin is a real good burner.

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  • scott k_3
    scott k_3 Member Posts: 22
    pics are up

    Attached are photos williamson boiler with carlin burner, water level in sight glass, water is a little above placard and side data plate

    thanks for the advice
  • Steamhead (in transit)
    Steamhead (in transit) Member Posts: 6,688
    If

    when the LWCO shuts the burner off, the water level is below the probe, then it's working as designed.

    If the water level is above the probe when it shuts off, the probe may be dirty or bad. Call a pro.

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  • another no-no on this steam boiler

    Another no-no on this steam boiler, its piped in copper!
  • scott k_3
    scott k_3 Member Posts: 22


    Yes there is coppper, but only for the first 5 feet or so (through the manifold) and the condensate return line (comes into the bottom of the boiler in the back. I know from reading Dan's book that copper is a no-no but I'm not sure I understand why. It can't be a strength issue 2psi is less than domestic water, corrision-I think it would be better than BI, is it expansion/flexure? It has been insulated--by me, pretty good job if I do say so myself ;-)
  • rjm
    rjm Member Posts: 60
    williams

    I believe its the old w/m 68 series
    Copper is a no-no because of expansion. Copper expands more than black pipe. which in turn can cause solder joints to crack. where as black pipe is threaded and can tolerate a little movement.
    ps.. My wife thinks we're just a bunch of idiots talking about pipe. we're not, are we??
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