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Off topic - windows and utility sinks

... anyone else mention Milgard yet. Warranty is very important with any double glazed windows and Milgard has a lifetime (yours) warranty that covers parts and labor. They make a wide range of windows... As for washers, limit your search to front loaders for energy and water efficiency.

Yours, Larry


  • Mark_46
    Mark_46 Member Posts: 312

    Hey Folks,

    While my question isnt heat related it may be something that can be answered by those who visit here. One is basic plumbing and the other is related to building envelope.

    I am considering replacement windows. I am looking for reliable and durable windows while improving the efficiency. What brand would you recommend? Price is a concern but not paramount.

    I am also considering replacement washing and drying machines. I'd like to revamp the whole deal and replace the utility sink as well. What brand sink and model would you recommend? And why?

  • Derheatmeister
    Derheatmeister Member Posts: 1,514

    I've got a Maytag neptune in a scatch and dent and like it very much.Also there is Asko which I had before: That thing was really great to, it Cooks your laundry as it has it's own heater build into it.But that's the way most of the european Washing machines work i.e. Bosch,AEG.Siemens.
  • Long Beach Ed
    Long Beach Ed Member Posts: 1,188
    Try Andersen Replacements

    Last summer, Andersen came out with a line of replacement windows called Woodwright. These are true made-to-order replacements, that go in as easily as garbage vinyl ones that sell for $150 and warp.

    The Andersen ones carry the good name, reputation and service of the Andersen line. They have wood interiors in pine, maple or oak and aluminum clad exteriors in white, green or beige. Their guarantee is assumable.

    These are certainly not the best on the market, but are very good for the price. The smallest ones sell for about $325 with a 36 x 50" going for about $480. Just remove the stops and sashes and the window goes in with three screws.

    Check them out.

  • John_173
    John_173 Member Posts: 63
    Pella, Anderssen,

    no doubt others, but none of the cheapos. Just like heat, you get what you pay for.

    One thing to consider is what you've currently got. Not only from a aesthetic POV, but also from the quality end.

    I live in a approximately 100 year old house. The north & south ends were substantially renovated/modified 50 odd years ago. The double sash windows in the main part are worth restoring. Of the north sets, two double sash & two casements, the casements are great, the sash acceptable but aesthetically so-so. The 10 casements on the south end are shot. Sash are stormed, casement not.

    In considering window upgrades, the local Pella guy counselled me to rehab the original sash. His statement was that no windows manufactured today are of the quality of those - simply in wood quality alone.

    Rehabbing is rreeaallyy slow. I dismantle the sash and window, refinish each piece, seal, insulate, reglase, re-rope, etc. Very satisfying but very labor intensive. Not a winter project.

    If your current windows are, say, 25 years old, you're probably better off replacing them.

    Setting aside radiant windows & maybe reflective glazing, standard double sash windows in good condition combined with storm windows are as effective as fancy double pane modern windows.

    Check out John Leeke (I believe) on the net. Great name for a guy in the window business, eh? Maybe he does plumbing on the side.
  • JBee_3
    JBee_3 Member Posts: 13
    slop sink

    Try ACE hardware for a plastic slop sink. Order it on line and it's sent to the nearest ace store free shiping.
  • bill nye_3
    bill nye_3 Member Posts: 307

    I like Fiat products for the laundry sink. The cheap PVC or ABS sinks at true value are just a little to cheap and flimsy.

  • Mark_46
    Mark_46 Member Posts: 312

    Hi John,

    Thanks for the feedback.

    My home (and sashes) are about 85 years old in the original part of the house. The previous owner added the 'good ol' triple Track aluminum storms. Yikes! But they leak, especially from a infiltration point of view. When the wind blows...

    My house was added to as well sometime in the 1960s. The windows in that portion are not much better than the circa 1925 versions. I will do all windows in one clip.

    From the aesthetic point of view I dont suspect the new windows will create a significantly different look so Im not too concerned. All windows are 6 panes over 1 and I will replace with the same.

    I suppose John Leeke is a restoration specialist? Do you have a link?
  • Mark_46
    Mark_46 Member Posts: 312

    Hi Ed,

    Thanks for the feedback.

    Yes, I saw that Andersen entered the replacement window market. Surprising they didnt sooner. At any rate, If I remember correctly from visitng this topic a year ago or so before I was really ready to begin the project, Andersen repalcements required a certified installer. Have you heard the same? I'd like to install myself.

    You say the vinyl framed windows warp? There are many of those on the market and the prices are certainly attractive. But they are sort of a moot point for my application because all my windows are framed with fairly large woodtrim and crown moldings, etc typical of windows that used chains, pulleys and sash weights from the pre-war era. I think white vinyl against dark stained wood would look less than aesthetically appealing.

    Finally, there are a lot of manufacturers out there. Its not easy to sort through all of them in a reasonable amount of time. If not using a national brand (pella, andersen, marvin, jeld-wen) any tips/certifications to look for?
  • John_173
    John_173 Member Posts: 63
    Leake link

    No doubt my inherent frugality prevents me from going the "replace 'em all in one swoop" route. The bill from that would stagger me (& this isn't THAT big a house). And our relatively mild climate makes piecemeal rehabbing easier to live with.

    Good luck on your renovation. There are a number of good looking replacement windows out there.

    For your info, here is Leeke's site:


    There is also a paperback by Terry Meany "Working Windows", (Lyons Press, $14.95 ISBN 1-59228-708-5) that is ok, except that the author thinks he's a comedian and that gets old on about page 2.

    Peace to you.
  • Mike T., Swampeast MO
    Mike T., Swampeast MO Member Posts: 6,928

    The old house lover in me says that you should restore--not replace--your windows. While it can take lots of time and patience if you DIY, it takes little in the way of tools and the materials aren't very expensive either. A good professional restoration will cost at least as much as good quality replacement. Insulate the weight pockets, get everything nice and tight, install spring bronze or interlocking weatherstripping, make sure your storms are well fitted and your windows will be just as efficient as most modern replacements.

    If you must replace, I tend to favor high quality vinyl. Good lumber yards and glass companies are probably your best source. I've not used the new Anderson replacements, but have been fairly pleased with the Anderson windows I've used in the past. Nearly all replacement sash will considerably reduce the glass area--this can look especially bad when windows are installed in banks. You'll still need to insulate the old weight pockets.

    As to slop sinks, I detest the flimsy, cheap PVC things. There are some better quality plastic/composition slop sinks, but all I've seen have sharp angles and a relatively soft surface. This makes them easy to scratch (often DEEPLY) and difficult to keep clean. While they're much more expensive, look for an NSF certified porcelain over cast iron slop sink. Kohler and American Standard certainly still make them. You can sometimes find these sinks used for a low price and with some serious elbow grease will probably look better than one of the plastic things after a few years and certainly last much longer. NSF sinks have rounded corners for easy cleaning and have a highly durable, scratch resistant surface.
  • John_173
    John_173 Member Posts: 63
    Leeke link

    The "replace 'em all in one swoop" is against my frugal tendencies and my moderate climate makes the piecemeal route do-able. There are some good looking replacement windows out there, though.

    Here is the Leeke link or all writ out: http://www.historichomeworks.com/hhw/index.htm.

    There is also an ok book - Working Windows by Terry Meany (Lyons Press, $15, ISBN 1-59228-708-5). The author's attempts at humor wears on me by about page 2, but the information is good enough.

    Good luck on your various projects.

    Peace to you.
  • mtfallsmikey
    mtfallsmikey Member Posts: 765
    Science Guy's got it!

    Fiat is the only way to go for laundry tubs...sold them for many years, unless you run across an old concrete tub that is intact.
  • Bill W@Honeywell
    Bill W@Honeywell Member Posts: 164
    As far as windows go...

    I replaced everything 5 years ago with standard Anderson double hung EnergyStar rated windows, no problems. Tilt in to clean, screens easy to remove for cleaning. Their "Renewal" line of custom-made replacements wasn't around then, but I have seen them at many trade shows and they look good. Make sure you get EnergyStar rated windows, and pick the installer carefully. The best products can be ruined by a poor installation.
  • Rich L.
    Rich L. Member Posts: 414

    We built a new house in 2000 and used all Anderson casement windows. No problems or complaints, they are a very nice tight window. Decided to build again in '06 and we were going to use Anderson this time too but our carpenter steered us away from them. He said they are a good window but he felt they were way over priced for what they are. We wound up going with Gerkin vinyl casement windows. They are a very tight, solid, energy star rated window. We're very pleased with them. BTW we didn't buy them through the carpenter so I don't believe he had a financial incentive to steer us toward them.
  • Doug_7
    Doug_7 Member Posts: 233
    High Performance Windows

    With today's energy prices you want to use high performance windows - double glazed, low-e glass and argon filled.

    They cost slightly more than conventional double glazed air filled but will save you a lot of money in the long run, not to mention the increased comfort.

    A window is the most inefficient device in your home from a heat loss standpoint. Conventional double glazed air filled windows are about R=2. Literally more that half your heat is going out the window.

    High performance windows can cut this heat loss in half or better. Argon is a better insulator than air and low-e glass reflects the heat that would otherwise be lost back into the room. They also have insulaed spacers between the panes to reduce edge heat loss.

    Then there is the comfort aspect. With conventional double glazed air filled windows with aluminum spacers - the inside pane gets very cold creating cold drafts in the room. The inside pane of high performance windows will be much warmer with no drafts.

    Make sure you select windows with a higher energy performance - it will pay off in cost and comfort.

  • Phil_17
    Phil_17 Member Posts: 178

    Look into the Marvin line of replacement windows (I think they're called Ultimate). They are built-to-order, based upon the dimensions of your existing openings. There are a lot of options (all wood, aluminum clad, pre-painted, number of lights, etc. They are not cheap (perhaps one of the most expensive options) but you can get them to fit exactly, without the need to disturb any of your existing moldings or trim.
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