Radiant heat installation questions

Tom Manton

should go up against the bottom of the tubing to drive the heat up.

I've seen these set ups work ok in VT but the house must be well insulated

Tony Shupenko

Radiant heat install - I am not

thrilled with the install and need some other opinions. Staple up system that has air space under (basement) before gyp ceiling (series of photos. Also, concerns on piping and manifold runs. Any comments?

Regards,
Tony Shupenko









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Paul Pollets

Not pretty...

You shouldn't be thrilled...not exactly a shining example of craftsmanship. We always use aluminum transfer plates and R1-R19 insulation batts under a "staple-up" or suspended application. Bringing the loops out in the middle, rather than the edge of the lid is poor planning. What do the radiant manifolds look like?? The boiler?? Does the radiant tubing have an O2 barrier?




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jp_2

whats the intent?

looks like just an attempt for floor warming? kitchen or bath?

Rich L.

not pretty or efficient

Like Paul and JP said it's definitely not pretty. Staple-up jobs like that can work, if planned for correctly, however they are going to be the least comfortable radiant application and require the highest water temps to drive the heat up through the sub floor and coverings. Looks like poor pre-planning in tubing layout and returns to headers. I don't understand popping through the drywall to make the connections.

Tony Shupenko

Kind-of a reply to all:

1. Onix tubing by Watts.
2. 4 radiant zones are in the home - 2 on the 1st floor (entry foyer and kitchen)and 2 on the 2nd (bathrooms). As you can guess, ceramic tile in all areas.
3. Picture of boiler equipment below - sorry I do not have a closer photo.
4. 115 degrees F water to radiant. Floor temps were about 72.

Regards,
Tony Shupenko




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kpc_9

115F to a staple up....

w/o plates won't work in most cases.You need to have aperson well versed in radiant look and give the system a good going over....kpc

Ron Gillen

Stapled up

In the first picture there is a staple through the wall of the tubing.Do you know it's the only one. With onix I'd bet you could go right through and not find the leak until the staple rusts off. The header for the lines through the hole in the gyp has mini ball valves not real good for balancing. Are the loops the same length? I'm not aware of transfer plates available for onix but you can lower you temps by tightening up the air space. No reason the insulation can't be upagainst the tubes. We're looking for radiant not convection. You shore have a lot of stuff for a little floor warming.