No heat in one room with baseboards

ALH_4

There could be air in that zone. The baseboards become high spots in the piping for that zone. If it is air, that zone will need to be manually purged for it to function correctly.

Todd_30

No heat in one room with baseboards

I just moved into a new place and everything checks out well except for the heat in the living room. All the heat for the place is base-ray hydronic baseboards. The five other rooms in the house definitely have heat but the living room is cold...no heat. Not a big problem, but this is where the thermostat is located which makes it interesting to regulate the temperature of the house, especially in the back rooms where I'm sweating. I've checked every valve I could possibly find and they are all open. What could be the cause of this one room not getting heat? I read that these systems are kind of like ladders with the hot water on one side, the return on the other, and the rungs are the registers. If this is true, is there a chance of something blocking the water to that register?

Thanks for your help.
Todd

Todd_30

bleeding

Is bleeding the zone a difficult d.i.y. job? I've been serching for steps on the process but I am not sure if I have been reading the correct steps for my set-up.

Weezbo

Not all zone valves are created equal.

i have amnesia right now and have not or will not remember those valves anymore. you could very well have an obstruction in the line.on another line of thought , depending upon the insulation of the structure you might have a frozen line, as i am on a roll , air locks can also produce an obstruction...there are ways to determine these things buh not all easy to specifically describe...

the basic H of it though is check the pipes one end to the other if any thing is ice cold your lines may be Frozen.

if you connect a washing machine hose to the purge supply and return on that zone and crank up the boiler pressure to say 24 psi at about 200 degrees , you can induce some flow and heat to at least that much of the pipe... closing all other zones and creating a call for heat, your circulator will pound away at that zone .eventually heat will go to cold...another way is to cut both the supply and return and zip some current thru the pipe with a tool designed to thaw frozen pipes,..chasing the water with a torch is another method...

boiling the water in the tubing can "Push" the air thru a system .what it does is compress the air more and more then the steam travels across the air lock condenses and soon you have a small miniscus that is transporting btu's ...
with a circ pump controlled zone the simple exchange of one circ from another can quickly determine the reliability of the circulator in question. a homeowner without tools needs to have an experience set that is not readily divined...professional draw from their experience set and the specific tool set...might be easier and less time consuming to hire someone who knows how to do this type of work and you do whatever it is that you do to help make the world go around... financially you might be more comfortable with that idea and physically and emotionally comfortable ,sooner.

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bob young

try increasing the pressure

Dave Larsen_11

bleeders!

Take a look on the sides of your baseboard. Is there a little silver fitting with a square head or a screw slot in the middle? This is a "coin vent" and is used to bleed off the air that has gathered in the baseboard. If you have valves in your basement to isolate areas, then shut off one valve to the baseboard, bleed off air until you get water, then open that valve and close the valve on the other side and bleed again. Now make sure your pressure is still OK on your boiler,open all valves and see what happens. If you still have a problem then it's time to look for a local contractor.