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Old Boiler
Ben_15
Member Posts: 7
As far as I know, the house was built in either 1948 or 1952. I think it was built in '52.
-Ben
-Ben
0
Comments
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An Question Nobody Has Been Able To Answer
Alright, somebody told me to come here for insights about this old part on my American Standard boiler. But first, about my heating system: in my house has a two zone hydronic baseboard American Standard boiler. I'm pretty sure it's original to my house, so it was probably manufactured from '48 to '52.
Here's my question:
I on my boiler, I have this odd black box. It is mounted to the wall and has a chain with a weight on it. The chain is mounted on a motorized dial. It says, 'Thermostat" and '10 Volt' on the top of it. Sometimes, the dial will move the chain too far and the chain will fall to the ground. Nobody knows what it does or why it's there. I have pictures of it:
Here's some other pics:
Anyone have any clue what this does and/or why it is there?
Thanks,
-Ben0 -
old boiler
I believe that has to do with an auto coal loading system and was never disconected0 -
It's an old damper operator
if that boiler was coal-fired at one time, it would have been used to open and close the draft dampers under thermostat control.
To Learn More About This Professional, Click Here to Visit Their Ad in "Find A Professional"0 -
Interesting...
I'm now thinking this boiler may have not been original to my house. I really don't see how this could have been coal [it's natural gas now], but maybe there was a coal furnace at one time. It just doesn't seem big enough to be coal. The funny thing is, there isn't a coal chute in my house. I'm thinking that maybe it was removed when the people who lived in this house before created the addition on to my house? Anyhow, I'm quite surprised and fascinated that you guys knew exactly what this device is and what it did. I've talked to numerous people who didn't have a clue.
I'm quite surprised with this information.
Thanks,
-Ben0 -
What year was house built?
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combustion air damper
if this is a natural draft burner, this chain and motor could still be in use and used to open the combustion air damper to the burner. without it connected the burner could be very fuel rich (bad situation)0 -
I'm not sure what kind of burner is inside the boiler (all I know is that it burns natural gas), but that black box is located on a side wall around the boiler. The ends of the chain aren't actually connected to anything, well, on of the ends has a weight attached to it.0 -
Gas
I liked the pics and looking at the way they did things back then. You should take more and post them. Then take that old thing out and replace with a new MOD CON Gas is expensive. Keeping a old system like that is just like paying a 12% mortgage.0 -
Gas
I liked the pics and looking at the way they did things back then. You should take more and post them. Then take that old thing out and replace with a new MOD CON Gas is expensive. Keeping a old system like that is just like paying a 12% mortgage.0 -
Some More Pics and Thoughts On New Boilers...
Okay, so I don't necessarily want to install a new boiler because: Firstly, it would cost quite a bit, and there's other, more critical home improvement projects that need to be addressed over the old boiler. Secondly, I don't know that I want to fall into the inescapable money pit of planned obsolesce. And thirdly, I've just started learning about HVAC systems recently.
Example:
About two years ago I had to buy a new refrigerator because our ten year 'old' one crapped out on us. About seven months ago, the ice maker stopped working and it costed $300 for a repairman to come and replace it. It literally took him less than five minutes, and most of the charge was for his time. What a RIP! My grandfather still has a refrigerator from 1940 sitting in his basement, and it works perfectly.
I'd rather not get into that kind of a mess with a boiler system down the line...
Here's some boiler 'beauty shots' for you guys:
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Too many years ago,
in a very large home in North Baltimore, I removed an antique gas-fired cast iron boiler. It had a Honeywell Series 10 (3-wire 24 volt) Thermostat wired to a Series 10 mod motor w/ a chain/linkage setup somewhat like you have. When the stat made the circuit, the motor started a process which lifted the lever on the one, & only, gas valve on the boiler. At the end of the heat cycle, the motor drove closed, & a cast iron ball, affixed to the linkage arm, closed the valve
There were no safety devices, or limits, other than the stat & relief valve. This, despite BG&E Inspection Stickers w/ dates back to the late 40s.
Alas. I fear your device served a more mundane purpose.0 -
In 1957
In 1957, this boiler set the then owners of my house back $679.20.
Amazing. I found that out with a PDF document that was on this website.
-Ben0 -
cost of new
You are already paying for a new boiler in installments every month with the fuel you are burning. Those Arco Liners were not particularly efficient even by 1948 standards. I bet your gas company has some programs and incentives to get rid if that thing. As to planned obsolecence, a good cast iron boiler will be warrantied for at least 25 years to lifetime.0 -
Okay, Okay...
Okay, Okay, I'll look at new boilers, but I wont be able to upgrade right now. Probably a good idea since it's about 30-some degrees where I live.
I'm not even sure what an Arco Liner is. Maybe the name of the cast iron water tank/holder inside?
But, any ideas on where to start researching? Good brands of boiler; incentives; other creative ideas on upgrading?
I would really like to ditch [most of] the natural gas bill altogether and go GeoThermal. But... that would be extraordinary..[ly]... expensive. I'm not sure if it would even be feasible on my lot. It would probably be largely impractical to retrofit my system. Though, if I were to build a new house, I might opt for Geo.
Any ideas?
-Ben0
This discussion has been closed.
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