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direct vent oil boiler (suggestions)
Bruce M
Member Posts: 166
Not sure if you know but Crown is owned by Burnham Holdings which is the parent company of Burnham, New Yorker, Bryan and so on.
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Comments
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suggestions for new oil dv
Hi looking for some input on a direct vent oil boiler.
Anyone have any luck with the crown or thermodynamics boilers.
Appreciate the help.
Mike0 -
The Crown ODV is a fantastic unit. I have several out there with zero issues. They are also not made by Crown!
Viessmann now has a DV unit. Haven't tried one yet.
To Learn More About This Professional, Click Here to Visit Their Ad in "Find A Professional"0 -
I have
used Buderus G115DV, Utica Starfire DV and Burnham LEDV.
One thing I have found is that they don't like to ingest raw cold air as per their air intake setup here in New England. I find that I have to dilute (stray from spec on that)
All are out there are chugging away with really no problems
Just have to make sure they are set up and maintained to avoid sooting.0 -
Direct vent
We have some Buderus G115 out there chugging away the only thing I would say is that you need to keep your tanks inside so the oil is warm.0 -
I agree / Bob
new engalnd is a hard place to put air through a 3 pass boiler...I have a few out there but am not real happy w/ the overall results/ I avoid them at ALL cost. I if i was "forced" to try the Smith DV ...series 8. They have had good results w/ them I am told. Try to put a chimney in....really.0 -
so true Kevin
Only use them if no other way. Electric conversions were the reason I used them..In lab settings they perform well, I'm sure but you know how oil quality/tech skill level/site conditions can vary so much in the real world!0 -
oil direct vent
Thanks guys, this is on long island. So some cold winter intake air in inevitable. I will try to work a chimney into the renovation.
Thanks again,
Mike0 -
Smith DV-8
I have a DV-8 w/ a field controls vent that was put in just before this heating season. I was concerned about ignition in subzero temps with the fresh air intake but at -5 degrees there was no problem.0 -
Still not made by them!!!
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cold intake air
Bob, how do you anticipate how the burner will function (ingesting cold air) if you install and set it up on say a 40-50 deg day, or even warmer? How do you know how much to stray on the cold air intake?
Thanks,
Mike0 -
and...
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it's seat of the pants
I leave the 4" pipe in the near vicinity of the AF2 intake. Try for 11% CO2 max for cushion. I don't think there is a perfect solution, but this seems to work for me. Note: inspectors want to see the intake pipe hooked to the burner "per mfr spec". They tell me you can do what you want after passing. One inspector was well aware of the tough start issue w/ cold air. I suppose milder climes are not so much an issue..0 -
and that...
is the problem. cold air will mess up the atomization on the cold days...this is painfully true in a cold basement. If the basement is warm you have a better chance of proper operation. I have tried a bunch of different options and still not pleased w/ the results. I had two homes newt to each other and on 1 cold Jan. Sat. AM (-16F)I got a call from them both that the heat was out...On BOTH intakes there was a thick coat of frost for 3'....it was then I said no mas. kpc0 -
What I've done
to combat the cold air problem in to crack the vac. breacker on the inake open in cold weather. So for the tepering of the intake air has done the trick.0 -
tried it....
not enough.0 -
Carlin
I've got the carlin burner on my Smith DV-8, and my cellar can get down to 40 degrees because the back wall is above ground, maybe the nozzle line heater is helping a lot because so far so good.0 -
I used the ...
carlin ez too...at -16 even that was an issue. kpc0 -
kevin
I guess if they start predicting minus double digits I better "be prepared".0 -
your boiler...
is a single pass. The buderus I have used was 3 pass. different boilers. You may very well be ok. gain the warmer the intake pipe is and stays the better off you will be. good luck! kpc0 -
Hey Mike....
Not to stray off the path, but why not consider a (OH No...here it comes....) power venter?
The new units from Tjerlund and Field work worlds better than "at the beginning", and the TJ units can be set up with multiple appliances, with the addition of the MAC.
Building a chimney is the best...but NOT the ONLY option. You still have to make sure you have enough combustion air for a chimney, but it's the same without it also. Fresh air into the room is not a head scratcher...but with "cross contamination" and placement issues that have been reported with D/V units...I think the power venter is still a viable alternative.
JMHO. Chris0 -
My LE
is vented into a chimney, but I put a BF-5 on it. No cold air issues on Long Island in over 2 years, but I doubt it's gotten to single digits on Long Island in the past few years. Between the vac breaker and the 10 feet of horizontal PVC vent and 5 feet of 4" vetical aluminum vent down to the air box, I guess the air gets tempered. Pulling the fresh air from across the room might help give it time to raise a few degrees.0 -
what is a bf-5?
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Check out the Peerless WV-DV boiler, it has been an almost bullet proof unit, extremely quiet in the basement. Only problems have been when installation instructions are not followed. Available with tankless coil (don't shoot) and net to 137,000.0
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