CIBB help needed

Unknown

The push nipples are smooth iron, tapered on both ends. The ends of the cast iron come one of two ways, pipe threads, or a smooth socket for a push nipple. There are two tappings in each end, one high and one low. Between sections, you'll have smooth sockets with a pair of push nipples and a carraige bolt; or you'll have pipe threads on the outboard ends, high and low in the same positions. The vent will go in a bushing in the high tapping, the copper adapter will go in the bottom tapping. A 4 footer usually will be a 2' left and a 2' right, with a pair of push nipples and a bolt.

Noel

Timco

Long story short, a customer who is in a rural town calls and needs to replace a 4' CIBB in a bathroom remodel. (WM 'Snug' type, 3/4") My problem is that I have not installed this before and am not sure how it would tie into 3/4 coper in the basement and if I need to loop the two cores together. The cust wants a bleeder and the assy kit comes with a coin vent, but WM could not tell me if I needed a standard brass 'bleeder 90' or how the coin vents ties in. Also, they say I need 'push nipples' but could not say if I needed an adapter or if regular 90s would just sweat onto the push nipples. This just can't be this hard...

I'm glad to toss a couple bricks at this on top of the bricks I plan to toss at the latest 'bot' thing...Thanks,

Tim

Timco

So the left & right pieces have the threads to tie into for the connection? Do the top & bottom runs need to be joined on one end or do you use a tee and 90 to make a little manifold for each side? I assume supply & return must be on the same side with a 90-90 to make the loop on the other side? This really stinks trying to do this without seeing it...thanks again,

Tim

Timco

Got it...I actually downloaded and read the install instructions for this product. Hate to say it, but WM would have sent me the WRONG parts if I just ordered what they said I needed and did not trust my instinct that the 'push nipples' were not what the supply & return magically connect to...Thanks Noel.

Tim

Unknown

This help Tim,

the vents for WM snug CIBB are located top of the L or R end panels.
Try looking here.

Dave

Unknown

nope, no u-bend

They are just wide open cast iron "boxes" inside. You need to go in one end and return from the far end. The top tappings can be plugged or have the vent installed in them.

To connect both pipes from the same end requires a dip tube to extend almost all of the way to the far end of the baseboard on one of the pipes. You can't buy that part, you make it from 1/2" copper or something...

Noel

J.C.A._3

Our supplier.....

Sends W/M snug9 up to 6' sections assembled. Anything larger, we assemble at the job site.

Be sure to leave 5-1/4 " on each end of the cast iron for the end covers or valve enclosures! I use both, depending on the situation, and find the plain end caps are fine.(skip the valve enclosure if you're not going to put valves on the feed side.

If you're going to use copper, I would also suggest leaving enough room in the rough in for sweat unions on either end. Without them, there is NEVER enough room to make repairs if anything goes south. We've been connecting them with pex lately, and that gets us a little more wiggle room.Send photos!

Chris

Timco

My customer will be roughing this in on his own and just wanted the parts. I am now sure I got them the correct parts. WM does not have the radiator ells so they will have to get those themselves or I will help them with that. The install instructions called for the rad ells and I hope those fly for them. Thanks for the help,

Tim

J.C.A._3

I suggest....

3/4" radiator union ells. Same reason as before.(Legend is what our local supplier carries). JCA