How old is this boiler?

Peter Zelchenko

It says Weil-McLain, Series 1 on the front.
I wrote to them and they didn't have much info either...

Tom Hopkins

Hi,
I'm a first-time homeowner who has never dealt with heating issues before. (My apartments always had heat included) We have a 1350 sq. ft. colonial near Boston, built in 1935. The house is 25 X 27 feet, 8.5 ft. ceilings downstairs, 7 ft. ceilings upstairs. There are about 10 windows on each floor with storms. We have single pipe steam. The house has 4-tube radiators throughout, 8 in total, although 2 are convector style.
None of the pipes in the cellar are insulated. I found a paper that said the house had cellulose insulation blown in the walls in 1992. There is loose pink insulation in the attic.
I'm trying to understand my boiler's efficiency. We have used 200 gallons of oil for the each of the last 3 months. At night we set the thermostat at 56 degrees and leave it that way until 4 PM when my wife gets home from work and sets it to 66 degrees. On the weekends we keep it at 66 during the day. We shower daily, do a load of laundry and dishes every other day. We have an indirect hot water tank. It seems expensive to pay over $600 per month but with oil at over 3 dollars maybe it isn't bad?
I've attached a photo of the boiler. It is a Weil-McLain size 0-167 Series 1. The faceplate says hand-fired = 290 sq. ft. steam/465 sq. ft. water on one side. On the other side it says oil & stoker-fired 350 sq. ft. steam/560 sq. ft. water.
Dan's "We Got Steam Heat" book mentions a pressuretrol but I don't see one anywhere? I can take photos of the back if needed. There is a pressure gauge on the front but I think it's permanently stuck on 4.5 lbs. What are those mysterious knobs and panels?
Hopefully I've supplied a lot of information...any impressions? My wife is having a baby so we will have to keep the house warmer longer next season.
Any recommendations, comments or questions are appreciated!
Nelson

ChasMan

Wow, that thing needs a name. 1350sq ft should not use 200 gallons of oil per month. A little money spent here should offer a rapid payback.

tim smith

I would guess 1940s vintage

Your boiler has some issues it looks like. I see condensation running out at the fron doors. Boiler probably needs a good cleaning and tune up. All steam mains, (the larger pipes that come off the top and run around to feed radiators) need insulating absolutely. Flush out boiler and clean pressure control feed tubes. This is a minimum. Ideally, you are probably close to needing a new boiler, properly sized. That boiler is oversized I am sure. But if money is not free to do so, do prior at least for better efficiency and safety. Good luck, Tim

ed wallace

old boiler

that dates to late 40s early 50s way over sized and needs a cleaning oil companies love those time to up grade

Peter Zelchenko

Thanks! Do you have a rough estimate of how much we SHOULD be using, based on the house and heat setting info I provided above?

Peter Zelchenko

Thanks! I have been draining about a pint of brown water from the low water cutoff once a week. Is that the same as flushing out the boiler? What/where are the pressure control feed tubes?

Ross_7

A U.S. Boiler, perhaps?

That might be a U.S. Boiler, but I'm probably wrong. Very similiar in appearence. I used to service an old U.S Boiler that was connected to Webster "Type R" Vapor system, downtown at our Trades Building. Hmm., I think it's time to update.

Randy-Lee Braman

time for a new one.

Nelson,
I think its time to retire that old gal,shes
served her time well.You probably would see a fast payback on a new unit,sized by a acurate heat study.
Also i think your setback is a lttle to much,i
would go with a 4 deg instead of the 10 deg that you are doing.
Check here under find a proffesional for some one in the Boston area to work with you.
Randy-Lee

ed wallace

old boiler

yes its an old us boiler used to have 1 in my house always refered to it as a v12 engine not very effient except for heating the basement

[Deleted User]

Time for a new boiler.

Goes well w/ a new baby. You asked. So.

Shiney thing top left of boiler is the pop safety valve.
Top right is the Honeywell Pressuretrol. Round knobs on front right are try cocks. They're for manually checking water level. I'd leave them alone. Front left is McDonnell 67 low water cutoff. Get a 5 gallon bucket. Flush that 67 into it once per week, until water clears, & burner shuts off. Right rear is the water feeder connected to the 67. It keeps the water level where it's supposed to be. The top front panels are flue clean out doors.

Ever who installed the boiler forgot that cast iron boilers need headers. Make sure the installers of your new boiler have a passing acquaintance w/ them.

Tom Byrley's book says the 167 oil-fired Weil has a net steam rating of 390 sq ft (93,600 btus). Your plate says 350 (84,000 btus). Low input would be about 1.20 gph #2 oil. High end around 1.35. Educated guess @ age - 58 years. Efficiency? Forget combustion numbers. About 65%.

Long Beach Ed

As you asked...


I'll go with the pack. This is a great boiler, might last forever, but you can probably see at least a 20% fuel savings with a new one. Part of the savings would come from modern efficiency, the rest from a properly sized boiler.

All bets are off though if you hire the cheapest bidder who doesn't pipe the new boiler properly or measure the load to size it right. Most contractors will screw up a steam job.

Ross_7

Sorry

Sorry I missed that,Nelson!

Steve Garson_2

I replaced a similar boilers (Newton, MA) and cut my oil usage by 20%. At the present oil prices, that means saving $600 a year on oil costs. Plus fast steaming. At minimum, insulate the pipes, check your main vents and lower the pressure.

tim smith

get a pro for the service on boiler/burner

Leah Frances

Thanks.

To all who replied. Ron, thanks for the specific info about the boiler and the knobs. The pressuretrol is set to its lowest setting. I attached a photo of the back. Can you tell me if I have a Hartford loop? I am getting water hammer after the boiler stops. It is just an occasional loud knock, not a constant hammering. In the photo you might see a faucet or spigot below the water feeder...can I open this to drain any crud from the return, or is this for another purpose?

[Deleted User]

Nope.

No Hartford Loop. You can open the boiler drain if you want. Have a hose cap & washer handy.

April is a good time for a new boiler.

heatboy_2

It certainly old enough........

.....to have it's first prostate exam!