thermocouples

Bill W@Honeywell

Try bill.wolfe@honeywell.com. This firewall is very picky about what it lets thru. Where are you located, Darrell?

Darrell

I'v run into a bunch...dozens...of HW 36" t-couples that won't thread into the gas valve because the flare behind the threaded end is not flat enough and the button on the end is too big. Comparing them with older ones...or a different brand...the new ones are gaining close to 1/8 inch which leaves only one or two threads to catch in the gas valve. All of these are foreign made, according to the packaging. I tried to whine on the Honeywell site, but got lost and confused...I'm hoping they'll pick it up here.

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Bill W@Honeywell

Hi, Darrell...

What's up with the T'Couples? Please get me a date code, (4 digit number on the packaging or item). You can drop me an email, also.

Darrell

Thankyou Sir...I sent you a note off Wall.

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Darrell

I'll just paste it here...I think it will be alright...

I live and work on the Kenai Peninsula in Alaska...the hangy down part below Anchorage. Sterling specifically.

I've noticed a fair few thermocouples lately that I have a dickens of a time getting to thread into a gas valve when I change them out. The WR or HW valves that have the fittings on the back seem to be the worst...probably because it's awkward to get to. But, I got to looking more closely the other day, and I discovered that the copper sheath tube is flared at the valve end and butts up against the button on the end of the t-couple. The button itself is physically bigger in profile, by more than a mm, and the sheath, which is usually quite flat, is not flared flat enough for the threaded fitting to engage the threads on the gas valve. So what happens if you're not careful it will cross thread terminally...and there goes that 200 bucks! I've been able to save some of them by grippng the button and threaded fiting and crimping it myself...but you still have only a few threads engaged. I usually only carry 36 inch t-couples on the truck and a 48 or two for just in case. I've gotten them from all of three different supply houses with the same results. I did pick up some WR t-couples and they worked flawlessly...they are much shorter from button end to threads...close to 1/8" OR 3/16". Seems like the problem started about a year ago and hass been fairly consistent since. In a box I'll get three or four that just won't start. Seems like they don't last as long either...but, I'm doing alot more servicework now...exclusively in fact....so I may just be seeing more of them in total. I may be able to get you a picture or two...or even send you some samples if that would be helpful.

Thanks for picking up my query on the Wall...Honeywell's site just didn't work for me when I tried it the other day. I realize the timing made this look like I was testing whether or not anybody at Honeywell was paying attention...re: the other thread about manufacture's monitoring the Wall...in fact, I got chided for my post a couple of times tonight...that was not my intent and this is a legitimate concern of mine.

On another note while I have your ear...does Honeywell have a book for troubleshooters like me that details the operation and troubleshooting of the electronics ignition stuff like the S8610 and the replacements that are just now coming out? Something with everything in one place wold be so nice...on the water proof paper if it's not too much to ask! I have an old honeywell book that an oldtimer gave me but it is really dated. Trying to keep track of the papers that come with the controls is tough in a service rig.

Thanks! And for what it is worth, I appreciate your participation on the Wall.

Darrell Kincaid
Darrell's Heating Crisis Intervention


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Bill W@Honeywell

Here's some info.

We have a new soft-cover book that cross-references all our oil & gas ignition controls, new UIFC boards etc. Publication number is 63-9575. There are also laminated, pocket-sized "cheat sheets" for the R7184, use 69-1384, S8610U use 69-2042, S9200 UIFC board use 69-2087. There is a laminated combustion control cross reference that folds up and will fit above the visor of your service van, or in your toolbox. Use 63-9581. You can get these from your Honeywell distributor, or order them off the website.

Are you using Q340 0r Q390? Also, any date code in particular, or are they mixed? I also am forwarding this thread to our market managers in Minnesota; if they have any comments, I will pass them on to you.

I also will mail you some of the publications I mentioned.

[Deleted User]

hey bill,

are those publications downloadable from a honeywell site?

Bill W@Honeywell

Yes...

But to get the laminated versions, you need to see your distributor, Honeywell rep or order them from the ContractorPro website (if you are a member). The www,customer.honeywell.com website allows you to download and print out technical sheets at no charge, and no password is required.

Darrell

Thanks Bill for your attention. They are 340's, the contrator pack of ten in a box. The problem seems pretty universal...the Honeywell's are just bigger than WR and don't give much window of oppurtunity for the threads to catch.

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Unknown

Thermocouples

Not that we should have to do this but what I usually do is take some emory cloth and sand away some of the tip which gives better access to the the threads when screwing it into the magnet assy. It does not change the out put or reliability of the t'couple.

Darrell

And I wasn't going to mention that I took a file to a few of them 'cuz I thought you'd all think I was a hack!!! it did work.

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Unknown

Darrell it is not

being a "hack" it is being creative!!!

Darrell

Thanks

Thank you Bill at Honeywell...I got my goodies...very nice!

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