Steam Heating Woes

JR_10

Thanks. Can you be a little more specific when you say to measure mains (do you mean length from boiler to rad(s) or lenght in basement before they turn up into walls)? I'm assuming that only venting I currently get is through pipe that leads up/out through roof. I know that someone is going to tell me to read the books as I'm a newbie with system this complex, but just moved into house and trying to direct heating guy that comes to me via home warranty so I don't go broke trying to getting this working right.

JR_10

Steam Heating Woes

sorry for letting my string from a couple of days ago go stale. Have older oil boiler steam heating system (2 pipe?). One series of rads is not getting hot (1st/2nd/3rd floor one above the next) although pipes that lead up front corner of house that feed those radiators does get hot. Also, getting some water hammer in this and another rad series. I am now attaching pictures of boiler with pipes above as well as the three rads that aren't getting heat. Any help would be appreciated as I am trying to get a feel for what I have and where to start. Thanks.

Steamhead (in transit)

That's a 2-pipe air-vent system

with some gorgeous old radiators! I think they are Bundys, and the real ornate one should be an American Rococo.

This type of system is a bit different. First, the return lines should NEVER be vented. It's way too easy for steam to get into them, and we don't want to help it along. But the steam mains should be extremely well vented so they will fill with steam at an ounce or two of pressure. Measure the length and diameter of each steam main and we can tell you what vents you need.

Second, keep the steam pressure very low. Replace the Pressuretrol with a Vaporstat that cannot be set higher than 1 pound (L408J1009). A gauge that reads in ounces will be useful too, but the present gauge must remain to meet Code.

Then see if those radiators heat OK. I bet they do. If not, and they still bang, you have steam meeting water where it shouldn't. The fix should be obvious.

Also, if that Beckett AFG burner still has the centrifugal air damper in it, have it removed and a standard coupling installed. These dampers tend to stick, choking the burner's air supply and making it create smoke and soot.

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Steamhead (in transit)

Mains

start at the boiler and measure to the last radiator takeoff on the main. That's the length you want, also measure the pipe diameter.

What you're doing with these vents is automatically letting the air out so the steam can fill the main quickly under ounce pressures. The vent closes when steam reaches it.

Don't confuse this with the "vent" that goes up the chimney. This exhausts the products of combustion to the outside.

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JR_10

Steam Heating Woes

No, I understand the difference between CO venting vs steam venting. Is it possible that old system like mine would have had some sort of steam vent that used pipe outlet up through top of house as I have vent pipe that leads up through one of bedrooms and out roof? I'll try to see if I can trace it back to origin to see what it hooks up to as I have nothing else that would need to be vented on that side of house and there is a rad in close proximity to pipe leading up and out, so my assumption was that it tied into steam system.

Stewy_2

Standard coulping for Beckett AFG

I found the following quote in this thread.

"Also, if that Beckett AFG burner still has the centrifugal air damper in it, have it removed and a standard coupling installed. These dampers tend to stick, choking the burner's air supply and making it create smoke and soot."

My boiler is setup almost identical the boiler in the pictures (one pipe steam though) in this thread. I get the soot and smoke with a bit of exhaust smell like described and would like to know how to change my damper to a standard coupling

Steamhead (in transit)

You need a pro to do that

because the burner must then be re-tuned with an analyzer. Also, if the burner has been smoking, the boiler will probably need to be cleaned too.

Top it off with a new CleanCut fuel unit (pump) and an R7184U primary that will provide valve-on delay on startup, and motor-off delay on shutdown. We do this on all our Weil-McLain 68-series boilers and the smoking and sooting are cured.

Try the Find a Professional page of this site, under Resources at the top of this page. If you're in the Baltimore area, contact us.

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Steamhead (in transit)

Maybe

there was a radiator in the attic at one time?

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JR_10

Had heating contractor in yesterday evening. He believes problem is due to no pitch in return pipe that all the rads in the series that aren't getting heat would feed down into - the pipe is essentially level for about 8 feet before it goes through a wall and then slopes properly. I know that all returns should be pitched down to boiler, but could this alone be reason for those rads not getting heat? Also, he thought that system was in need of flushing (what is ballpark on what flushing should cost? - I have total of 13 rads, house is 3-story with 7 rads 1st floor, 5 rads 2nd floor, 1 rad 3rd floor.

JR_10

Steam Heating Woes

Please see my earlier email (replied under the other string). Still trying to figure this out as I do not see another rad point anywhere else in the attic. Since it looks like I'm going to need some work, any recommendations on contractor in my area (Central Jersey) that is as passionate as you guys would be much appreciated. Thanks.