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Well piping issues
Bill Nye_2
Member Posts: 538
Was there any kind of water conditioner stuff.? Sometimes the steel tank help in removing iron or iron oxides.
what do you have for a pressure switch setting? 30/50, 40/60? Whatever the cut in setting is, you want the pre-charge in your tank to be at least 2 psi less.
all of the newer systems are constant pressure, they use a variable speed drive for the pump motor. The one I just completed yesterday was a Grundfoss. They suggested a 2 gallon tank!
what do you have for a pressure switch setting? 30/50, 40/60? Whatever the cut in setting is, you want the pre-charge in your tank to be at least 2 psi less.
all of the newer systems are constant pressure, they use a variable speed drive for the pump motor. The one I just completed yesterday was a Grundfoss. They suggested a 2 gallon tank!
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Comments
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Well piping issues
I see by some of the other posts that I'm not the only one who suffered during this miserable weather pattern this week. Commercial AC roof work all day , residential AC calls at night ( side business ) .
I noticed the soil around my well casing was soft ( wet )last week , so I decided to do some "recreational" hand digging. About 3 ft down I hit water...
So , I got an excavator out , dug a nice trench , he broke the pitless adapter ( so on , so forth ). Replaced all pipe and wire in the ground from the house to the case. Brutal weather for this after a day on the " high steel ". I have good pressure again , but I want to have " IDEAL " pressure , but having trouble finding practical information on this subject.
I replaced all water piping in the basement about a year ago ( I used 1 inch L copper ( mains ) ...softened , un-softened , hot )( 1 inch cpvc was more expensive at the time , so you know ) , installed a Goulds V-100 ( 32 gal ) tank , replaced the 1/2 hp submersible pump with a Goulds 5gs 3/4 ( about 250 ft well depth ). All service piping is 1 inch poly 200 psi.
Side note...I have this "pit" in my back yard...poured concrete walls , floor , ceiling about 10 ft high( my house is older and it has some water service components in this pit which are fairly new , and I " abandoned" ). There is a 50 gallon glass lined , galvanized tank dated January 2000 on the rating tag. I now have the water service entering the basement , away from the pit and the glass tank ( the tank was piped in series between the pump and the expansion tank ).
Questions :
1) Was the glass tank used to offset a low recovery rate on the well ? Even with a large leak in the supply piping I never ran out of water and pressure wasn't bad ( electric bills were though ).
2) The origional pump was 1/2 hp...from the info I read , 1/2 hp was barely on the curve...would the tank help with this ( pressure was good with this arrangement when I moved in ).
3) From my limited knowledge about this stuff , I have concluded that I should add a second V-100 to increase the " drawdown rate " , and tighten up on the differential cut-in cut-out with something like this...http://www.amtrol.com/amtrolr.htm
4) Is there a " book " on residential well systems...because I never get the same two answers on questions I ask at supply houses and plumbers ( in general ).
My water pressure is pretty good now , I should feel fortunate...but it may not be as good as it could and I'm sure most people here know more about this stuff than I do. Oh...and I'll install more galvanized glass - lined tanks if thats what I need to do , LOL. Thanks for replies , -Mike0 -
I'm trying
I'm trying to figure out what u trying to say in the post... I work on well pumpm and system,too... The galv tank may be a contact tank for clorine injector for sulfur or iron bactericas if u have it.. What's ur ideal pressure? Strange that ur well supply house can't give ya answers where mine helps me in every way they can to keep contracter customers... Water well assoc . com ( I think) have books available for evryone who want to know about well system.0 -
Freaktastic
Yes...and Yes. There is a chlorine injector...and if my water softener gets low on salt I see signs of iron. I have done some cheap water tests...but I need to get a sterile bottle sample to my salesman at Noland. Maybe I'll get some manpower together and raise the tank from the pit and put it back into service ( we'd probrobly drop it and end up with a large " morraca " , LOL.
My pressure cut in/out is 40/60. Tank pre-charge is 38. I have heard good things about the constant pressure pumps and perhaps that is what I need to do next.
Hmmm , now I'm thinking...when I remove all this stuff from the pit , what the hell do I do with it...the pit I mean , LOL. 20 years ago I'd have put a loud stereo system down there and made it a " MOSH PIT ". I could put my pool pump and filter down there...or use it as a place to drink beer...whoa...it has been a long day , thanks for the replies friends. - Mike
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chlorine will
High content of chlorine will ruin ur resin water softner.... Have ur water test done... I have a unit that will self chlorined, iron, iron bactericas, hardness, removal.. All in one unit... No extra bs pipings for each units and extra pressure drop... Chlorine won't hurt it HOWEVER, u must not use any iron remover or iron removal salts... Just regular block salts will do the job...0
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